Just replaced the Control Panel in my GE GDT655 dishwasher. The new panel is different than my old and has jumpers. The paperwork that came with my control panel has correponding settings but they did not owrk. I found an old service bulletin with pictures of my user interface but not my specific model number and tried those settings. It is very close but it still does not operate like it should.- lights go out when the door is open. Does anyone have the jumper settings for a GDT655?
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GE GDT655SGJ0BB dishwasher control panel jumper settings
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110.28081700 Little leak under washing machine Kenmore Élite
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Both Ovens won't Heat
Hey
I had an issue where my double oven's failed. First is was the lower oven, then the upper, within days it seems.
The top burners work fine, like most everyone's situation.
I found this site by searching and found this post: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...-problem/page2 (thanks!)
I have the same problems, whereas my igniter burned a hole through the deflector. I will be ordering a replacement, so I'm OK there.
My issue is, my top oven does not seem to function. I checked the deflector and there's no hole there.
I haven't pulled the two igniters (for bake and broil) and tested them with my multi-meter. Also note, the bottom oven is controlled by the control panel, and the upper oven is controlled via knob.
The bake or broil settings don't work on the top oven, so I don't think it's the igniters, and it's controlled via knob and not the panel, so I'm not sure where to look next?
I checked the gas safety valve with my multi-meter and it seemed OK. As well, I checked the switch at the back of the oven and it doesn't seem to make a difference (and it is unlikely that it moved)
Thoughts on next steps?
Thanks,
Brad
I had an issue where my double oven's failed. First is was the lower oven, then the upper, within days it seems.
The top burners work fine, like most everyone's situation.
I found this site by searching and found this post: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...-problem/page2 (thanks!)
I have the same problems, whereas my igniter burned a hole through the deflector. I will be ordering a replacement, so I'm OK there.
My issue is, my top oven does not seem to function. I checked the deflector and there's no hole there.
I haven't pulled the two igniters (for bake and broil) and tested them with my multi-meter. Also note, the bottom oven is controlled by the control panel, and the upper oven is controlled via knob.
The bake or broil settings don't work on the top oven, so I don't think it's the igniters, and it's controlled via knob and not the panel, so I'm not sure where to look next?
I checked the gas safety valve with my multi-meter and it seemed OK. As well, I checked the switch at the back of the oven and it doesn't seem to make a difference (and it is unlikely that it moved)
Thoughts on next steps?
Thanks,
Brad
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Fills and empties but spray arms do not come on
After I push the start button my GE GDT695SSJOSS, the dishwasher comes on and fills. Within a minute or so, it stops filling and does nothing else until a couple of minutes later, it discharges the water. It then fills a second time, this time the soap door opens, and does nothing else until a couple of minutes later, it discharges the water again.
I had a GE Appliance technician come out to perform a diagnostic service. He removed the filters and messed with the float, then turned on the dishwasher and the sprayers started to work. He said it was probably something restricting the float, which is weird because cleaning the filters and tapping the float is exactly what I did before I called the technician, because that's what the troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual said to do. Wouldn't you know when we tried to run the dishwasher later that night, the dishwasher started doing it again. I called and talked to the technician the next day and he said it was probably either the water inlet valve or control panel.
I've replaced both parts and when I started the dishwasher the sprayers did come on, so i decided to load it and run a cycle, but wouldn't you know it, the sprayers did not come on this time. I did take the float out and tried running a cycle and the water never came on, so it makes me believe the float is ok.
Any ideas on what's going on with my dishwasher?
I had a GE Appliance technician come out to perform a diagnostic service. He removed the filters and messed with the float, then turned on the dishwasher and the sprayers started to work. He said it was probably something restricting the float, which is weird because cleaning the filters and tapping the float is exactly what I did before I called the technician, because that's what the troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual said to do. Wouldn't you know when we tried to run the dishwasher later that night, the dishwasher started doing it again. I called and talked to the technician the next day and he said it was probably either the water inlet valve or control panel.
I've replaced both parts and when I started the dishwasher the sprayers did come on, so i decided to load it and run a cycle, but wouldn't you know it, the sprayers did not come on this time. I did take the float out and tried running a cycle and the water never came on, so it makes me believe the float is ok.
Any ideas on what's going on with my dishwasher?
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GE Adora Front Load Energy Star
Need your help fixing issues, namely: 1) In the middle of cycle, wash will not spin but motor runs/hums; 2) at start of washing clothes, press Power button, then start/pause button but will make 2 beeps but machine won't start. Had to unplug/wait a few sec then plug again for the washing to start then Issue #1 happens; 3) somewhere in the cycle, spits slowly with only a small load of clothes and machine makes noise. Any advise/help greatly appreciated. Thank you so much. -purity 21 Jan 2018
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door switch issue
Hello to all
Microwave is 1yr 4mo old. Just out of warranty. Started popping the circuit breaker couple days ago so I checked the breaker(dedicated 20Amp) seemed ok but replaced anyway. Same thing. Tried a short extension cord to another 20Amp outlet, same thing. Then on one try I noticed a spark coming from the hole the cord came out of and noticed the entire readout, light inside was dead. I investigated that thinking a mouse maybe chewed the wire but discovered a burnt out internal fuse. Replace that got the unit to power up again. Did some research and a lot of problems seem to involve a door switch so I disconnected the top switch plug and it went through a timing cycle without heating but did not affect the breaker (reinstalled the door switch). Then I removed the lower door switch plug and fired it up and bingo it worked. So my question, is it the door switch or something else? To me all the capacitors look normal and it is working fine like it is but I think it should be repaired properly. Need some thoughts please
Thanks in advance!
Microwave is 1yr 4mo old. Just out of warranty. Started popping the circuit breaker couple days ago so I checked the breaker(dedicated 20Amp) seemed ok but replaced anyway. Same thing. Tried a short extension cord to another 20Amp outlet, same thing. Then on one try I noticed a spark coming from the hole the cord came out of and noticed the entire readout, light inside was dead. I investigated that thinking a mouse maybe chewed the wire but discovered a burnt out internal fuse. Replace that got the unit to power up again. Did some research and a lot of problems seem to involve a door switch so I disconnected the top switch plug and it went through a timing cycle without heating but did not affect the breaker (reinstalled the door switch). Then I removed the lower door switch plug and fired it up and bingo it worked. So my question, is it the door switch or something else? To me all the capacitors look normal and it is working fine like it is but I think it should be repaired properly. Need some thoughts please
Thanks in advance!
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417.43042200 rotates CCW almost full turn intermittently throughout complete cycle
Hello,
I am new to this site. I appreciate any advice that may come my way. I have seen numerous threads on similar issues but not quite where I am currently with my machine. It was running a normal load one day when a really loud bang occurred. I quickly stopped it and took wet clothes out as I feared the concrete counterweight had come off as it had once some time ago. That wasn't the case this time. One of the drum springs broke so I replaced both springs, both shocks ( which just fell apart ) and a new belt as well. Upon trying it out after replacing those parts, I saw that it would fill with water then start to rotate approximately 3/4 of a turn CCW only with a few seconds in between each 3/4 turn. It would do this throughout the entire cycle whether wash, rinse, or final spin. The pump would drain water as it should as well. I then suspected the motor control board as it had been replaced twice quite some time ago. So I ordered one and installed and still have the exact same symptoms happening. The drum spins effortlessly by hand and there is no bearing noise or anything like that. I tries putting a few articles of clothing in thinking it may be sensing a load to balance out but no difference between that or running it empty. The motor also spins smooth and slop free without the belt on. Really hoping for some help as I can't afford a new machine and have not been able to find any info on this exact issue after 3 weeks of researching. Thank you in advance.
I am new to this site. I appreciate any advice that may come my way. I have seen numerous threads on similar issues but not quite where I am currently with my machine. It was running a normal load one day when a really loud bang occurred. I quickly stopped it and took wet clothes out as I feared the concrete counterweight had come off as it had once some time ago. That wasn't the case this time. One of the drum springs broke so I replaced both springs, both shocks ( which just fell apart ) and a new belt as well. Upon trying it out after replacing those parts, I saw that it would fill with water then start to rotate approximately 3/4 of a turn CCW only with a few seconds in between each 3/4 turn. It would do this throughout the entire cycle whether wash, rinse, or final spin. The pump would drain water as it should as well. I then suspected the motor control board as it had been replaced twice quite some time ago. So I ordered one and installed and still have the exact same symptoms happening. The drum spins effortlessly by hand and there is no bearing noise or anything like that. I tries putting a few articles of clothing in thinking it may be sensing a load to balance out but no difference between that or running it empty. The motor also spins smooth and slop free without the belt on. Really hoping for some help as I can't afford a new machine and have not been able to find any info on this exact issue after 3 weeks of researching. Thank you in advance.
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No manual, can't understand the Wash/Rinse settings?
I have no manual for this washer and the wash/rinse settings are as follows: W.C/T.F, C.C/F.F, H.W/C.T, W.W/T.T and H.C/C.F Can someone please explain to me what these settings stand for? They make no sense to me at all. Thanks very much.
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Kenmore Top Loading Washer Model 110 4025090 Type 111 Serial #CX0901390
Does anyone know where I can get a manual for this model? Are manuals still available? I have looked on the net and this model does not come up...Thanks.
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Kenmore 417.81122310 starts then shuts off (E4A)
Hi guys,
I have a Kenmore 417.81122310 dryer which I believe to be only a year and a half old and will no longer stay on. I have scoured google and all over to find out what would be causing this. I also looked at the E4A error code which seems to be vague and pretty broad. The dryer does start and will actually stay on for a few minutes prior to it shutting off and then all of the lights above the start/pause bottom flash on and off. I have since cleaned out the lint in all of the vents and tested the power on the terminals (with correct readings). The dryer does dry because it is warm inside after the dryer shuts off.
Seems like this could be a whole bunch of issues from fuses to limiters to control board to the motor? If Im right, this unit is only a year and half old (we just moved into a new house at the end of December) and it baffles me that it is already broken.
Any suggestions for things to try on this unit? Voltage drops or ohm readings from differently terminals? I havent really opened the unit up to know where anything is yet but am at the point of checking all connections and such before buying a new unit.
Thank you much for your replies.
I have a Kenmore 417.81122310 dryer which I believe to be only a year and a half old and will no longer stay on. I have scoured google and all over to find out what would be causing this. I also looked at the E4A error code which seems to be vague and pretty broad. The dryer does start and will actually stay on for a few minutes prior to it shutting off and then all of the lights above the start/pause bottom flash on and off. I have since cleaned out the lint in all of the vents and tested the power on the terminals (with correct readings). The dryer does dry because it is warm inside after the dryer shuts off.
Seems like this could be a whole bunch of issues from fuses to limiters to control board to the motor? If Im right, this unit is only a year and half old (we just moved into a new house at the end of December) and it baffles me that it is already broken.
Any suggestions for things to try on this unit? Voltage drops or ohm readings from differently terminals? I havent really opened the unit up to know where anything is yet but am at the point of checking all connections and such before buying a new unit.
Thank you much for your replies.
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Thermistors
Good Morning - I've got a GE ZIS480D built in side by side. I'm having a curious issue that I can't get my head around and am looking for thoughts on it. The obvious issue is that the digital temp readout in the fresh food section is off by as much as 10 degrees. It'll read 31 or 32 degrees but the actual temp is around 40 - 41 degrees. Other times it varies by 5-8 degrees between the display temp and the actual temp. The manual states that if the temp is set to 34 the temp range should be 32-36. The other obvious issue is that the evaporator fan has developed a bit of a whistle. That's been going on for a while.
I checked the thermistors in the FF section by placing them in ice water, unplugging the J1 connector (and the refrigerator) and connecting the red lead of a tester into the respective pins for each FF thermistor (PINS 1 and 2) and the black lead into in J1 PIN 5 . Both readings came back at about 15.5k ohm which I take to be in the right range assuming my tester isn't calibrated by NASA (it's not). But then I tested the freezer and evap thermistor (PINS 3 and 4) and both came back with no resistance at all - 0 ohm. I noodled with it for a bit and got the same result.
This confuses me. Could be testing error on my part. But if it's not, then wouldn't the evap fan run all the time if the Freezer & Evap Thermistors were truly shot? It doesn't run all the time. So that's my first question.
Second question is, if the freezer & evap thermistors are shot would that account in any way for the inconsistency between the fresh food display temps and actual temps in that section?
Third and final question is more general: any ideas what else to check and how else to check it? I understand that the board could be shot and it's somewhat likely that the evap fan motor is past its prime and on the way out. But that wouldn't explain the readings I got on the thermistors. Before I invest in replacing the board and fan I'd like to get a handle on with the thermistors in the freezer and evap coil and make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Kind regards,
Dan
I checked the thermistors in the FF section by placing them in ice water, unplugging the J1 connector (and the refrigerator) and connecting the red lead of a tester into the respective pins for each FF thermistor (PINS 1 and 2) and the black lead into in J1 PIN 5 . Both readings came back at about 15.5k ohm which I take to be in the right range assuming my tester isn't calibrated by NASA (it's not). But then I tested the freezer and evap thermistor (PINS 3 and 4) and both came back with no resistance at all - 0 ohm. I noodled with it for a bit and got the same result.
This confuses me. Could be testing error on my part. But if it's not, then wouldn't the evap fan run all the time if the Freezer & Evap Thermistors were truly shot? It doesn't run all the time. So that's my first question.
Second question is, if the freezer & evap thermistors are shot would that account in any way for the inconsistency between the fresh food display temps and actual temps in that section?
Third and final question is more general: any ideas what else to check and how else to check it? I understand that the board could be shot and it's somewhat likely that the evap fan motor is past its prime and on the way out. But that wouldn't explain the readings I got on the thermistors. Before I invest in replacing the board and fan I'd like to get a handle on with the thermistors in the freezer and evap coil and make sure I'm not missing something obvious.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Kind regards,
Dan
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GE Top Load HE/Running continuously/won't stop!
Age: 18 months
Last use: 3 days ago (no issues)
Woke up at 5AM to sound of empty washer running continuously. Attempted to shut off using power button, did not stop. Unplugged. Allowed to sit for 2 hours.
Plugged back in, began continuous running again. Attempted to reset via lifting lid up/down x 6, did not stop. Attempted reset via turning cycle button counterclockwise/clockwise, didn't stop.
Have contacted GE for service call; appt in 1 week. I desperately need to reset the washer as I had surgery and can't drive/go to the laundromat.
HELP!! Any assistance would be appreciated!
Last use: 3 days ago (no issues)
Woke up at 5AM to sound of empty washer running continuously. Attempted to shut off using power button, did not stop. Unplugged. Allowed to sit for 2 hours.
Plugged back in, began continuous running again. Attempted to reset via lifting lid up/down x 6, did not stop. Attempted reset via turning cycle button counterclockwise/clockwise, didn't stop.
Have contacted GE for service call; appt in 1 week. I desperately need to reset the washer as I had surgery and can't drive/go to the laundromat.
HELP!! Any assistance would be appreciated!
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Control Board Return Question
I purchased a control board from my fridge, and then determined that it did not have to be replaced. I want to send it back, but the website I bought it from is scaring me. They say that if it was installed they won't return it to you and they won't reimburse you. What do they typically mean by this? Do they test the board somehow to see if it was powered up? Do they mean if it was taken out of the package (which I did)?
Thanks
Thanks
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Dryer not running
I went to get a load out of my GE electric dryer (not sure of model number). Clothes were still wet. I went to start the dryer, but it would only run by holding the start button down. I assumed the dryer was bad, so we replaced it with one my brother had in storage (Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYW). We reused the power cord, because it did not have one with it. When we first plugged it in, a PF error came up, but went away once I changed settings to dry the wet clothes. BUT.... the replacement dryer will not run as well! All the lights on the display work, but nothing happens when I press start. All of the buttons work when I try to change the settings. I've read this forum about solving the issue by checking all of the connections, holding the start button down, replacing the mother board, etc... but I think it's strange that both dryers have issues. Could it be the power cord???
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Kenmore Elite Icemaker running water
My Kenmore Elite Bottom-Mount Refrigerator is running water every few hours and not making ice. The water is just pouring through the device and out of it. It runs for a few minutes and turns itself off. The water ends up in the ice cube catch bucket and freezes into a block. I can't seem to stop it. I even have the ice maker turned off. Any help?
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Kenmore elite 106.44433601 cannot enter defrost cycle
My kenmore elite side-by-side fridge (106.44433601) had serious frost built-up on evaporator coil blocking the air flow to fresh food cabinet.
I tried to follow Sears online chat instruction to set it to defrost cycle by holding the "filter reset" and "control on/off" button simultaneously
for 3 seconds or more. But the fridge didn't response to the reset button. It only went on and off based no the "control on/off" button.
I unplugged the fridge and manually defrost the coil and the fridge is working normally now. But I am afraid the defrost problem will come back.
I tried again to force the fridge to defrost cycle with no success. What should I do next? Is this the correct procedure to force a defrost cycle?
How do I know the cause? Control board or the bi-metal? Which one is causing the fridge not going into the defrost cycle?
I tried to follow Sears online chat instruction to set it to defrost cycle by holding the "filter reset" and "control on/off" button simultaneously
for 3 seconds or more. But the fridge didn't response to the reset button. It only went on and off based no the "control on/off" button.
I unplugged the fridge and manually defrost the coil and the fridge is working normally now. But I am afraid the defrost problem will come back.
I tried again to force the fridge to defrost cycle with no success. What should I do next? Is this the correct procedure to force a defrost cycle?
How do I know the cause? Control board or the bi-metal? Which one is causing the fridge not going into the defrost cycle?
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Refrigerator doesn't cycle normally
We've been having a problem with our old Kenmore recently. Intermittently we'll notice that it's not cooling, frig or freezer compartment. Power is not interrupted. I've thoroughly cleaned the condenser coils underneath (which were pretty filthy to be honest) and checked everything else accessible through the back; that's all fine.
Every time we have this problem though, it seems to work again. After I did all that cleaning and I was about to start checking components, I rotated the temp control knobs a few times and it kicked back in. Then the next time it seemed to have shut down, the temp control was oddly set to '1' which neither my wife nor I think we'd done. Then another time my wife noticed that several boxes were stacked against the air inlet in the back of the freezer, and after moving them, it started up again.
Today, I just needed to rotate the temp control (which had been at 3, the midpoint) down to 1, then back up, and I heard the 'click' indicating that it engaged. I did this a few more times and it clicked each time.
I am suspicious that the control itself is just getting flakey and could probably use replacement. This is, technically, the 'Temperature Control Thermostat.' It's about $75 so not something to do lightly. But the other part that seems it could be at fault is the 'Defrost Control Board,' which is over $200, and at that point it's replace-the-appliance time.
Would the temp control benefit from a spray of contact cleaner? I have a can of De-Oxit coming as I need to clean out the pots on an electric guitar.
Any advice welcome!
Every time we have this problem though, it seems to work again. After I did all that cleaning and I was about to start checking components, I rotated the temp control knobs a few times and it kicked back in. Then the next time it seemed to have shut down, the temp control was oddly set to '1' which neither my wife nor I think we'd done. Then another time my wife noticed that several boxes were stacked against the air inlet in the back of the freezer, and after moving them, it started up again.
Today, I just needed to rotate the temp control (which had been at 3, the midpoint) down to 1, then back up, and I heard the 'click' indicating that it engaged. I did this a few more times and it clicked each time.
I am suspicious that the control itself is just getting flakey and could probably use replacement. This is, technically, the 'Temperature Control Thermostat.' It's about $75 so not something to do lightly. But the other part that seems it could be at fault is the 'Defrost Control Board,' which is over $200, and at that point it's replace-the-appliance time.
Would the temp control benefit from a spray of contact cleaner? I have a can of De-Oxit coming as I need to clean out the pots on an electric guitar.
Any advice welcome!
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GE DBVH512EF0WW dryer turns off after a few minutes,
Hi,
We have been having problems with our dryer, model GE DBVH512EF0WW. First we noticed the dryer was taking a long time to dry clothes and then stopped working. We saw the belt was broken so we replaced that. It worked again, though still took longer than normal to dry clothes. Then it starting making squeaking noises and clothes were getting caught up top. It also started randomly shutting off but would turn back on in a few minutes. We opened it back up and noticed a cracked top bearing and worn drum slides so we replaced those and the felt duct seal. We cleaned out all the duct work and the dryer. It worked again after that but started shutting off mid cycle more frequently and would not start up as quickly.
We tried replacing the #507 part on the schemtics (High Limit Thermostat) and that did nothing.
Now it will only run for a few minutes before shutting off. We ran it through the diagnostic mode and the only thing that seemed not right was that for test T08 the motor would not start for the inlet thermistor temperature if we ran the test before T07 for the outlet one. Test T08 would run if we gave it a breat between tests. The temperature reading on the inlet test was around 145 and climbing.
We are kind of stuck now. Is the problem with thermostats or the motor?
Any help here is appreciated. We are a few days away from just buying a new dryer! haha
Thanks;)
We have been having problems with our dryer, model GE DBVH512EF0WW. First we noticed the dryer was taking a long time to dry clothes and then stopped working. We saw the belt was broken so we replaced that. It worked again, though still took longer than normal to dry clothes. Then it starting making squeaking noises and clothes were getting caught up top. It also started randomly shutting off but would turn back on in a few minutes. We opened it back up and noticed a cracked top bearing and worn drum slides so we replaced those and the felt duct seal. We cleaned out all the duct work and the dryer. It worked again after that but started shutting off mid cycle more frequently and would not start up as quickly.
We tried replacing the #507 part on the schemtics (High Limit Thermostat) and that did nothing.
Now it will only run for a few minutes before shutting off. We ran it through the diagnostic mode and the only thing that seemed not right was that for test T08 the motor would not start for the inlet thermistor temperature if we ran the test before T07 for the outlet one. Test T08 would run if we gave it a breat between tests. The temperature reading on the inlet test was around 145 and climbing.
We are kind of stuck now. Is the problem with thermostats or the motor?
Any help here is appreciated. We are a few days away from just buying a new dryer! haha
Thanks;)
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Frigidaire front load washing machine drain hose popped off, cant find where it goes
I moved this machine from a friends house to mine. I started it up, water went all over the place! Lol. I see the drain hose is not connected inside the machine. I think it goes right on the pump, buy there may be a part missing. Dont know if pictures are possible on here or not
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Turning OFF the refrigerator for two hours during peak time
Hello,
I have recently sign up for a special power plan in my area(to save on power) where the price/charges for the power utilized during the peak time of the day(3pm to 8pm) is slightly high compared to any other time of the day. I would like to check if i can turn OFF the refrigerator for couple of hours using the timer(during the peak hours).
1) Based on my online research turning off the refrigerator & turning it back on can draw the power 2x times to get the temperature back to the one set. May be true but i can save on higher charges during peak time(right?)
2) Appreciate any other alternatives or options suggested and does it have any adverse effects while doing it so ?
Thanks,
I have recently sign up for a special power plan in my area(to save on power) where the price/charges for the power utilized during the peak time of the day(3pm to 8pm) is slightly high compared to any other time of the day. I would like to check if i can turn OFF the refrigerator for couple of hours using the timer(during the peak hours).
1) Based on my online research turning off the refrigerator & turning it back on can draw the power 2x times to get the temperature back to the one set. May be true but i can save on higher charges during peak time(right?)
2) Appreciate any other alternatives or options suggested and does it have any adverse effects while doing it so ?
Thanks,
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