My 10-yr-old Maytag Gas Dryer (mdg6657bww) has stopped properly drying clothes.
Symptoms: The clothes don't dry despite tumbling fine. The timer does not advance.
Vent/air duct is clear and flows freely (I even tried with the ducting removed).
Burner works and gas ignites... but apparently not long enough and/or frequent enough to dry the clothes.
Performed checks in accordance with this YouTube video (Not heating Maytag gas dryer - YouTube):
o Igniter - PASSED continuity check
o Gas Valves - PASSED resistance checks
o Radiant sensor - PASSED continuity check
o Thermal Fuse - PASSED continuity check
o Cycling Thermostat - PASSED continuity check
o HiLimit Thermostat - PASSED continuity check
o Timer - I didn't perform these checks because I didn't see how to get the knob off (mine is pull-to-start)
I checked the TEMP SWITCH myself against the schematic (which I was tickled to find was waiting for my behind my control panel)... and it's SAT.
Running with the front panel off reveals the igniter will come on and the gas will flow and ignite and burn. Usually burns a minute at first, then off. Next cycle in 1-2 minutes burns about 10 seconds, then off. Repeat.
QUESTIONS
1) How do I removed my pull-to-start timer? I can't find instructions for taking off the front knob.
2) Many web resources I've read implied that the timer could prevent gas from cycling properly. How? It seems that the timer only defines HEAT - NO HEAT.
3) Many web resources I've read implied that the gas valves could be bad even if they're still cycling. How? And mine passed their resistance checks according the video. If the coils weren't intact they'd have the wrong impedance.
4) My schematics don't show the timer motor getting voltage through the entirety of a "REG. FABRICS" or "PERMANENT PRESS" drying cycle!? How can this be? Does something else advance the timer during this period?
5) Is it possible thermostats could pass their continuity checks but still be bad? Seems that although a cold thermostat could be 0 ohms it might increase in ohms at temperatures too low to dry clothes. The video I followed didn't elaborate on that. Is there an easy check?
Any help is appreciated.
Symptoms: The clothes don't dry despite tumbling fine. The timer does not advance.
Vent/air duct is clear and flows freely (I even tried with the ducting removed).
Burner works and gas ignites... but apparently not long enough and/or frequent enough to dry the clothes.
Performed checks in accordance with this YouTube video (Not heating Maytag gas dryer - YouTube):
o Igniter - PASSED continuity check
o Gas Valves - PASSED resistance checks
o Radiant sensor - PASSED continuity check
o Thermal Fuse - PASSED continuity check
o Cycling Thermostat - PASSED continuity check
o HiLimit Thermostat - PASSED continuity check
o Timer - I didn't perform these checks because I didn't see how to get the knob off (mine is pull-to-start)
I checked the TEMP SWITCH myself against the schematic (which I was tickled to find was waiting for my behind my control panel)... and it's SAT.
Running with the front panel off reveals the igniter will come on and the gas will flow and ignite and burn. Usually burns a minute at first, then off. Next cycle in 1-2 minutes burns about 10 seconds, then off. Repeat.
QUESTIONS
1) How do I removed my pull-to-start timer? I can't find instructions for taking off the front knob.
2) Many web resources I've read implied that the timer could prevent gas from cycling properly. How? It seems that the timer only defines HEAT - NO HEAT.
3) Many web resources I've read implied that the gas valves could be bad even if they're still cycling. How? And mine passed their resistance checks according the video. If the coils weren't intact they'd have the wrong impedance.
4) My schematics don't show the timer motor getting voltage through the entirety of a "REG. FABRICS" or "PERMANENT PRESS" drying cycle!? How can this be? Does something else advance the timer during this period?
5) Is it possible thermostats could pass their continuity checks but still be bad? Seems that although a cold thermostat could be 0 ohms it might increase in ohms at temperatures too low to dry clothes. The video I followed didn't elaborate on that. Is there an easy check?
Any help is appreciated.