Quiet Partner II started cutting out right after initial fill a few months back, but would usually work when re-started 3/4 times. Heated dry works, and generally if the unit begins the main wash cycle it will complete - the trick is getting the unit past the initial fill stage. On cut-out, all lights die (no flashing lights). Drain/Cancel will work always, even after the unit stops.
After reading forums, obtained a new TCO from a local parts supplier. Initially tried replacing using the included connection block but problem persisted with exact same symptoms. No apparent damage/charring/shorts/burning smell on any control board elements. Re-checked the TCO to verify polarity (even though the instructions say the fuse does not require correct polarity) and felt that the screw-in block seemed a bit precarious so I replaced those connections with heavy-duty crimp-on 'bullet' style connections. Problem persists with the same symptoms.
QUESTION: Is there a way to test the control board to see if it's throwing an error code before I replace that element? I'm seeing other threads here with similar issues that persisted even after the control board was replaced, so I'm wondering if the best thing to do at this point is to call in a technician who may be able to actually DIAGNOSE the issue with a technique other than swapping out parts until it begins working again? Or, given that dishwashers aren't THAT expensive, and this seems to be a common type of fault for these units, should I just cut my losses now and replace the unit with something different/more reliable/less prone to this issue?
Thanks a million in advance for any assistance. --Matt
After reading forums, obtained a new TCO from a local parts supplier. Initially tried replacing using the included connection block but problem persisted with exact same symptoms. No apparent damage/charring/shorts/burning smell on any control board elements. Re-checked the TCO to verify polarity (even though the instructions say the fuse does not require correct polarity) and felt that the screw-in block seemed a bit precarious so I replaced those connections with heavy-duty crimp-on 'bullet' style connections. Problem persists with the same symptoms.
QUESTION: Is there a way to test the control board to see if it's throwing an error code before I replace that element? I'm seeing other threads here with similar issues that persisted even after the control board was replaced, so I'm wondering if the best thing to do at this point is to call in a technician who may be able to actually DIAGNOSE the issue with a technique other than swapping out parts until it begins working again? Or, given that dishwashers aren't THAT expensive, and this seems to be a common type of fault for these units, should I just cut my losses now and replace the unit with something different/more reliable/less prone to this issue?
Thanks a million in advance for any assistance. --Matt