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Maytag Neptune Dryer will not heat up and dumps raw gas into fire tube

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Hi all! I was thrilled to stumble across this blog because my dryer is about to drive me crazy! If any of you can help me with this issue I will forever be in debt to you and will pay the favor forward!

The initial symptom was that the dryer was taking forever (I'm talking several hours) to dry a load of clothes. The 1st thing I did was the obvious which was to clean out the entire vent path. No luck. I then got on line and found that the #1 reason for this complaint was failed gas valve coils so I purchased new ones and replaced them. Still no luck. I then cycled the dryer with the front panel and door off so I could see what was going on with the igniter and flame (if any). Here's what is happening;

After the initial start of the dryer, the igniter comes on as normal followed by the opening of the gas valves and flame ignition. The flame burns for approximately 1 minute heating the dryer up nicely then cycles off. After a short period, and here's the weird part, the gas valve opens WITHOUT THE IGNITER LIGHTING FIRST and begins dumping raw gas into the dryer! The valve stays open for 15 or 20 seconds and then shuts off without ever being ignited. Approximately 5 seconds after the gas valve shuts THEN the igniter lights followed by the gas valve opening again and a normal ignition which only lasts for a few seconds. The dryer then continues to cycle normally but the burner only stays lit for a few seconds each time.

The funny thing is that only on the 2nd cycle of the burner does the gas valve open without a glowing ignition coil. If the dryer is shut off and allowed to cool somewhat, the whole cycle of events mentioned above will repeat itself. If the dryer is shut off but immediately turned back on, it will cycle the burner on and off every so often but only for short cycles not allowing the dryer to heat up sufficiently.

Since replacing the gas valve coils I have also replaced the thermistor and the flame/heat sensor. I have also tested both the high limit thermostat and the cycling thermostat which both show continuity at room temperature and then open (no continuity) when heated up with an iron. I finally gave up and called a repair man (only my wife was present when he showed up) who said that he suspected that my gas valve was leaking by and wanted to replace it for $385. I know the gas valve isn't leaking or it would remain burning when the solenoid's close. As I mentioned, on the 2nd cycling of the burner valve, it opens without the igniter glowing. This has been verified by the smell of gas when it happens and being able to light that gas (immediately after the gas solenoid opens) with a lighter.

Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to provide as much detail as possible. Is there anybody out there that can lead me to a fix on this?

Thank you,

Tom

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