ATF7000EE0 will not fill

April 12, 2019, 2:51 pm

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I've got an Affinity washer model ATF7000EE0 that will not fill with water. I have replaced the water inlet valve twice (new valves each time). When I replaced the valve the first time it would work *sometimes* on warm but never cold with the new valve. It got to where it wouldn't work at all so I got a second one & it won't work at all now.

There is no error code or anything it just never fills. It starts the cycle, drum spins & eventually timer goes down but it never fills with any water.

Any suggestions? Everything I read says water inlet valve! I can't figure out what plan b is when that isn't it!

Thanks so much for any help!

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Frigidaire window ac

April 12, 2019, 5:59 pm

≫ Next: Getting F06 E01 started mid wash

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My ac will not come on unless I press the MODE button, then when it comes on it will not go off nor can I change the temp. None of the buttons will work either. But when I push rest on the power cord it will run through different numbers and then show a PO then shut off.

Getting F06 E01 started mid wash

April 12, 2019, 7:52 pm

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I’ve got a 3 - 4 y/o whirlpool duet steam washer. Mid washing cycle heard a noise like a nut came off and hit some metal. Then I got the error code. Turned it off and now it won’t sense any clothing in the drum. Shows add garment light all the time. I am trying to find the service manual on this device.

Washing machine fills and spins, but does not agitate

April 12, 2019, 8:03 pm

≫ Next: - Freezer too warm and back interior panel of fridge displaced by water

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To start from the top, a friend of mine told me her washing machine wasn't working, and that after the last time she ran it she noticed a burning smell. I took a look, and it filled, but agitate and spin just resulted in buzzing. After some searching, we ordered a new motor. Alas, same problem. After a lot more searching, I checked the start capacitor, which turned out to be dead (no movement from infinite resistance on an analog multimeter). So we ordered a new capacitor, which came today.

The good news is spin now works like a charm. The motor starts right up without any noise or problem. However, agitate still doesn't work. There's no movement or noise from the motor, and no buzzing, but the timer clicks. Actually, it almost sounds like a car trying to start. Here's a video trying to engage an agitate cycle, with me activating (and deactivating) the lid switch:



The noise is definitely coming from the timer, not the motor. And the behavior is the same regardless of what wash type is selected.

I've tried to make sure the harnesses for both the timer and motor are seated securely a few times. Is there any way to test to make sure the proper power is getting to the motor? If it's the timer, are those pretty much black boxes, or is there a way to open them up and check and/or clean them? Unfortunately I don't think this washer is worth spending another $150 on if it requires a new timer.

If it helps at all, for the heck of it I tried hooking up the old motor (not installed in the washer), and the behavior is exactly the same: spin works just fine, but agitate results in nothing from the motor and the noise heard in the video.

- Freezer too warm and back interior panel of fridge displaced by water

April 12, 2019, 10:48 pm

≫ Next: Whirlpool WTW57ESVW1 Lower Agitator Moves Slowly

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The unit is a top freezer, bottom fridge. No icemaker and nothing special.

There was a loud bang last night, now the shelves are separated about 1 1/2 inches at the front center edge. The center metal upright that the shelves mount into at the back has popped forward while remaining attached.

The freezer also stopped cooling.

I decided to roll the dice and see if I could first fix the "mechanical" problem of the shelves being displaced.
If I can't fix the shelves, then there is no point in worrying about the freezer.
I decided (apologies to all those who are cringing) I was going to put a long bolt through the back panel to hold the upright metal shelf support for the shelves. Once I punctured the plastic back panel of the fridge section, water started pouring out. About 2 - 3 liters. There is still more in there, and I have no idea why it isn't making it to the floor.

Has anyone heard of this (back panel of fridge section full of water) before?
The fridge doesn't leak water on the floor, and water makes it down to the evap tray.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Whirlpool WTW57ESVW1 Lower Agitator Moves Slowly

April 13, 2019, 4:40 am

≫ Next: WFW94HEAW0 Getting F06 E01 started mid wash

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Hello, I have a Whirlpool Topload Washer (WTW57ESVW1) where the lower agitator is moving rather slowly. Here are the things I have fixed and/or replaced and the problem still exists.

1) Replaced the top agitator dogs
2) Inspected the motor coupling and nothing is damaged looks in very good shape.
3) Replaced the drive block
4) Replaced the clutch
5) Checked the lower agitator for striping where it connects to the drive shaft.

Other observations that might help.

1) During spin and drain cycle the washer spins and drains fine
2) During the agitation cycle, when I open the lid, I am able to move the lower agitator with my hand back and forward.
3) During the spin cycle, when I open the lid, I am able to move the lower agitator in the spin direction.

I am thinking at this point it might be the transmission that is bad but not sure how to confirm it before buying it or just replacing the machine. Thanks in advance!

WFW94HEAW0 Getting F06 E01 started mid wash

April 12, 2019, 7:52 pm

≫ Next: LSQ8520JQ1 Washing machine fills and spins, but does not agitate

≪ Previous: Whirlpool WTW57ESVW1 Lower Agitator Moves Slowly

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I’ve got a 3 - 4 y/o whirlpool duet steam washer. Mid washing cycle heard a noise like a nut came off and hit some metal. Then I got the error code. Turned it off and now it won’t sense any clothing in the drum. Shows add garment light all the time. I am trying to find the service manual on this device.

LSQ8520JQ1 Washing machine fills and spins, but does not agitate

April 12, 2019, 8:03 pm

≫ Next: KTRS19KMWH01 Freezer too warm and back interior panel of fridge displaced by water

≪ Previous: WFW94HEAW0 Getting F06 E01 started mid wash

$

0

0

To start from the top, a friend of mine told me her washing machine wasn't working, and that after the last time she ran it she noticed a burning smell. I took a look, and it filled, but agitate and spin just resulted in buzzing. After some searching, we ordered a new motor. Alas, same problem. After a lot more searching, I checked the start capacitor, which turned out to be dead (no movement from infinite resistance on an analog multimeter). So we ordered a new capacitor, which came today.

The good news is spin now works like a charm. The motor starts right up without any noise or problem. However, agitate still doesn't work. There's no movement or noise from the motor, and no buzzing, but the timer clicks. Actually, it almost sounds like a car trying to start. Here's a video trying to engage an agitate cycle, with me activating (and deactivating) the lid switch:



The noise is definitely coming from the timer, not the motor. And the behavior is the same regardless of what wash type is selected.

I've tried to make sure the harnesses for both the timer and motor are seated securely a few times. Is there any way to test to make sure the proper power is getting to the motor? If it's the timer, are those pretty much black boxes, or is there a way to open them up and check and/or clean them? Unfortunately I don't think this washer is worth spending another $150 on if it requires a new timer.

If it helps at all, for the heck of it I tried hooking up the old motor (not installed in the washer), and the behavior is exactly the same: spin works just fine, but agitate results in nothing from the motor and the noise heard in the video.

---

KTRS19KMWH01 Freezer too warm and back interior panel of fridge displaced by water

April 12, 2019, 10:48 pm

≫ Next: washer leak issue

≪ Previous: LSQ8520JQ1 Washing machine fills and spins, but does not agitate

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The unit is a top freezer, bottom fridge. No icemaker and nothing special.

There was a loud bang last night, now the shelves are separated about 1 1/2 inches at the front center edge. The center metal upright that the shelves mount into at the back has popped forward while remaining attached.

The freezer also stopped cooling.

I decided to roll the dice and see if I could first fix the "mechanical" problem of the shelves being displaced.
If I can't fix the shelves, then there is no point in worrying about the freezer.
I decided (apologies to all those who are cringing) I was going to put a long bolt through the back panel to hold the upright metal shelf support for the shelves. Once I punctured the plastic back panel of the fridge section, water started pouring out. About 2 - 3 liters. There is still more in there, and I have no idea why it isn't making it to the floor.

Has anyone heard of this (back panel of fridge section full of water) before?
The fridge doesn't leak water on the floor, and water makes it down to the evap tray.

Attached Thumbnails

 

washer leak issue

April 13, 2019, 8:02 am

≫ Next: Maytag Dishwasher MDB7130AWW Dead

≪ Previous: KTRS19KMWH01 Freezer too warm and back interior panel of fridge displaced by water

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I have a GE wwse5240g0ww. From looking under the tub, I see water leaking from the center and assumed a tub seal issue. The leak was small, maybe 1 drop every 2 seconds.

It was quite difficult getting the washer disassembled. I had to spray penetrating oil and it took several hours just to get the Agitator Coupling off. The hub nut was so stuck that it took a full 10 seconds with an impact wrench to get it off. It took a few minutes to get the split ring off. The hub washer was also stuck. It took a few hours of penetrating oil to get that off.

The tub seal was quite deteriorated. I cleaned out the area the best I could and installed the new tub seal. Per videos online, I put dishwashing soap on there to help it in. It went in quite easily, I thought it would have been a very tight fit. It was loose enough that if I tried to rotate it, I could spin it with my hand a little.

I tried filling the tub with water up to the seal to check for leaks and saw the leak was worse, a small steady stream of water.

Thinking, that maybe the seal needs weight on it or needs to run a cycle to fully seat properly, I reassembled the washer. I noticed that with the groove on the shaft, the tub washer doesnt touch the top of the tub seal. I thought that it was supposed to hold the seal down but perhaps not. anyways, after reassembly and running a cycle, the leak was the same, maybe a little worse.

I disassembled again (much smoother this time though the agitator coupling was still hard to get off). I noticed the tub seal is now up on the shaft. I guess spinning pulled it out? I attached a photo


I'd appreciate some advice on how to proceed. Perhaps, the seal is defective?

Attached Thumbnails

 

Maytag Dishwasher MDB7130AWW Dead

April 13, 2019, 8:12 am

≫ Next: Samsung washer getting loud on spin

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My dishwasher quit working not powering up or anything I took the panel off on the inside and got confused on what to do next ....PLEASE HELP lol can’t afford a new one

Samsung washer getting loud on spin

April 13, 2019, 9:58 am

≫ Next: WWSE5240G0WW Washer leak issue

≪ Previous: Maytag Dishwasher MDB7130AWW Dead

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Washing machine starting to sound like a jet engine during spin cycle. Rear bearing?
jay

WWSE5240G0WW Washer leak issue

April 13, 2019, 8:02 am

≫ Next: WF461ABP/XAA-0 Samsung washer getting loud on spin

≪ Previous: Samsung washer getting loud on spin

$

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I have a GE WWSE5240G0WW. From looking under the tub, I see water leaking from the center and assumed a tub seal issue. The leak was small, maybe 1 drop every 2 seconds.

It was quite difficult getting the washer disassembled. I had to spray penetrating oil and it took several hours just to get the Agitator Coupling off. The hub nut was so stuck that it took a full 10 seconds with an impact wrench to get it off. It took a few minutes to get the split ring off. The hub washer was also stuck. It took a few hours of penetrating oil to get that off.

The tub seal was quite deteriorated. I cleaned out the area the best I could and installed the new tub seal. Per videos online, I put dishwashing soap on there to help it in. It went in quite easily, I thought it would have been a very tight fit. It was loose enough that if I tried to rotate it, I could spin it with my hand a little.

I tried filling the tub with water up to the seal to check for leaks and saw the leak was worse, a small steady stream of water.

Thinking, that maybe the seal needs weight on it or needs to run a cycle to fully seat properly, I reassembled the washer. I noticed that with the groove on the shaft, the tub washer doesnt touch the top of the tub seal. I thought that it was supposed to hold the seal down but perhaps not. anyways, after reassembly and running a cycle, the leak was the same, maybe a little worse.

I disassembled again (much smoother this time though the agitator coupling was still hard to get off). I noticed the tub seal is now up on the shaft. I guess spinning pulled it out? I attached a photo


I'd appreciate some advice on how to proceed. Perhaps, the seal is defective?

Attached Thumbnails

 

WF461ABP/XAA-0 Samsung washer getting loud on spin

April 13, 2019, 9:58 am

≫ Next: Can someone recommend a faucet model for a countertop dishwasher?

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Washing machine starting to sound like a jet engine during spin cycle. Rear bearing?
jay

Can someone recommend a faucet model for a countertop dishwasher?

April 13, 2019, 2:09 pm

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My faucet started leaking from various places (the base and the various holes on the shower head), so I wanted to know if anyone owns a countertop dishwasher and if they can recommend a faucet that has proven itself to whithstand the water pressure after preferrably more than 6 months of use. Thanks in advance!

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Dryer sensor light

April 13, 2019, 5:13 pm

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My dryer was acting perfect, but today the sensor light is on. I have made sure everything is clean and lint free. I read other post about dryers and think maybe the fuse is bad. Whirlpool Cabrio model #WED6400SBO. What is the part number for this fuse, approximate cost and where is the fuse located.

gdf620hmj2es won't start

April 13, 2019, 6:56 pm

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I have the 3 beeps and won't start issue. I entered into the troubleshooting mode, and all lights were blinking, which I believe indicates a problem with the door latch, which I just replaced. However, I have the same problem, so could further assistance with troubleshooting. Thank you.

WDTA50SAHW Upperrack Wheel broke off

April 13, 2019, 8:25 pm

≫ Next: Samsung RSG5DURS Side by Side Fridge Freezer - Fridge Side not cooling

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The front guide wheel on the right hand d side of the up rack has broken off. From looking at it the molded plastic clips that attach the wheel to the rack are broken off. Can anyone help with a part number and possibly a good online source for ordering one?

Thanks

Brian

Samsung RSG5DURS Side by Side Fridge Freezer - Fridge Side not cooling

April 14, 2019, 7:42 am

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Hi all,

Anyone here able to help?

Got a Samsung side by side fridge freeze RSG5DURS. The Freezer side is working fine, but the fridge side is not cooling.

The LEDs on front can be set to whatever temp and it shows that, but when you open the door, the fridge appears to be room temperature even when its set to 1 degrees. I also unplugged and switched on after a while and there are no errors coming up anywhere. Tried powercool, but no fans or anything are kicking in.

Emptied it out and took the cover off where the fan is and radiator thingy and there is no ice build up, the fan spins freely as well.

Took the cover of the PCB on the back and could smell a slight burning chemically smell, but the board looks ok, no burnt components and the capcactitors appear to be fine.

See Pics for more info: https://imgur.com/a/pamSEHN

Any ideas?

KMHS120ESS Door error

April 14, 2019, 9:30 am

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Model KMHS120ESS - 4 microwave manufactured in 2016. I purchased this in 2017 and about 6 months after I installed it this issue started. It was intermittent until yesterday. I can get the thing to clear the meaasge. I think it I a microswitch in the door. I read some posts that say I may need to adjust or replace them. How do i adjust them? If I need parts where could I get the parts diagram so I order the correct parts.