Hello, my stackable washer/dryer is giving me some issues. It first started out that it wouldn't drain. I reset the breaker and now when I select a cycle it goes into the initial drain but then it faults out. I've tried to get into the diagnostics and am unable to do so. It does beep when turning the knob through the cycles but none of them work. The lid locks when it tries to go into a cycle and unlocks when it faults out. The dryer works perfectly fine without any issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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FFLE3911QW Washer will not cycle
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36-3270-00/03 Need help identifying Tappan gas stove model
Hello. I'm new to the forum and this is my first post.
I'm trying to find out when this Tappan gas stove was built, what the model is called and any literature/info I can find on it.
The stove is fully functional and everything works. I had a very difficult time finding 2 used burner knobs (358T142P100) but was ultimately successful.
The model/serial number tag under the stove top is quite worn but appears to be 36-3270-00/03336-10493619.
However, when entering it into parts sites the model number is not recognized.
Images just like the one I'm inquiring about are attached below and any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm trying to find out when this Tappan gas stove was built, what the model is called and any literature/info I can find on it.
The stove is fully functional and everything works. I had a very difficult time finding 2 used burner knobs (358T142P100) but was ultimately successful.
The model/serial number tag under the stove top is quite worn but appears to be 36-3270-00/03336-10493619.
However, when entering it into parts sites the model number is not recognized.
Images just like the one I'm inquiring about are attached below and any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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MZD2766GEW Maytag wide by side Evaporator coil freezes up will not defrost
Evaporator coil freezes up will not defrost. After manually defrosting unit cools properly until cool freezes up again, about 3-5 days depending on usage. Replaced adc board, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. Still will not defrost. Check resistance on heater and thermostat Pryor and after new installation and the old one actually seem to check out okay but change them anyway. Also performed ADC Board Test prior and after new installation and unit would not go into defrost after the L1 to test jump.
Old Parts actually checked out okay accept both control boards would not make unit go into defrost after jumping. Otherwise unit comes to temperature shuts off and Cycles beautifully until the coils freeze up which restricts air flow to the refrigerator consequently lowering that temperature slowly until total freeze up and then manually defrosting again. I am stumped at this point the door seals are good there's no sweating it just won't defrost any help would be appreciated at this point thank you.
Also have been reading through your blogs and have noticed that this is a very common problem with this unit but have not been able to find any resolution please help thank you.
Old Parts actually checked out okay accept both control boards would not make unit go into defrost after jumping. Otherwise unit comes to temperature shuts off and Cycles beautifully until the coils freeze up which restricts air flow to the refrigerator consequently lowering that temperature slowly until total freeze up and then manually defrosting again. I am stumped at this point the door seals are good there's no sweating it just won't defrost any help would be appreciated at this point thank you.
Also have been reading through your blogs and have noticed that this is a very common problem with this unit but have not been able to find any resolution please help thank you.
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Kenmore Elite Model C970-441933 Range door hinges
I am looking to buy 2 door hinges #318-024-747 for a Kenmore Elite Model # C970-441933. I am willing to buy the whole door if necessary. Can anyone help.
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ATF6700FS2 Frigidaire Affinity stackable washer beeps continuously, displays error code E90
The washer beeps continuously and displays error code E 90. It does function but beeping goes on after washing is done.
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665.95775890 Door doesn't close all the way
The oven door does not quite close all the way. It doesn't depress the light switch unless I press the door with my hand. It opens and closes otherwise. The hinges appear to be OK.
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Cooling Fan making squeaking noise
I have a Double Oven, Top and bottom convection ovens.
My cooling fan (NOT the convection fan) is making a high pitched squeak when I use the upper oven. Is this easy to repair?
It looks like there are two blower assemblies listed for this model?? I only see one of them in the parts diagram... I don't seem to see the dual oven model in any parts diagrams... Strange
I assume that if I'm using the upper oven it would be easy to know which one to replace, if there are two?
Thanks!
My cooling fan (NOT the convection fan) is making a high pitched squeak when I use the upper oven. Is this easy to repair?
It looks like there are two blower assemblies listed for this model?? I only see one of them in the parts diagram... I don't seem to see the dual oven model in any parts diagrams... Strange
I assume that if I'm using the upper oven it would be easy to know which one to replace, if there are two?
Thanks!
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DDT595SMJ2ES GE Dishwasher dead Board and 817 Error code
GE Dishwasher has a 817 Error Code and dead board. Went out to customer had the 817 Error code dead board customer could tell it had been leaking floor is heaping had not run into this so got back to shop and came on line and really didn't get an exact fix
Called customer and they called GE they sent them a heating element in which the old one tested good and a control board installed both pushed the buttons board lights up im thinking good to go got everything pushed back in tested it looked good as i was putting kick plate on i feel water got d/w pulled out found the leak in a hose between the diverter and the wash pump fine but now its back to the 817 error code on the new board i'll fix the leak did the flood switch trip the code and once i fix the leak how do i get the board to flip back to working condition thanks in advance
Called customer and they called GE they sent them a heating element in which the old one tested good and a control board installed both pushed the buttons board lights up im thinking good to go got everything pushed back in tested it looked good as i was putting kick plate on i feel water got d/w pulled out found the leak in a hose between the diverter and the wash pump fine but now its back to the 817 error code on the new board i'll fix the leak did the flood switch trip the code and once i fix the leak how do i get the board to flip back to working condition thanks in advance
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freezer defrost problem - iced up
Hello,
I have a whirlpool WRF736SDAM13 fridge. It started making a weird grumbling noise and the fridge wouldn't stay cool. Initial investigation shows that the freezer cooling coils are all frozen and the ice finally froze up to where the fan can't force cold air up into the fridge any longer. It's defrosting now and I have it partially disassembled. The rear cover panel is frozen to the coils so while I'm waiting for that to thaw, I figured I'd ask for some opinions on where to start diagnosing. I did call a fridge repair guy and he wants about $650 to replace the control board and main thermostat. $350 of that is parts, $200 labor, the rest taxes and shipping.
I'm not convinced. The heating element could have failed, and the defrost thermostat could also have failed. Where the control board is $299, the thermostat is about $40 ($140ish if I buy it along with the fan unit) and the heating element is likewise well under $100. I figure any of those parts could have caused this icing -- the defrost thermostat, the defrost heating element, the primary thermostat, or the control board.
Is there any way to narrow this down? I ran across a little howto regarding using a multimeter to test the defrost thermostat but I don't know how to test the defrost heating element or anything else. I'm trying to avoid just replacing everything one piece at a time, especially since replacing those thermostats and thermocouples require snipping out the old ones and splicing in the new, which is kind of a pain and introduces a potential new failure point.
EDIT - I have the cover off and there is a lot of ice in there, so much that I don't think this failed recently. It was only yesterday that I noticed the grumbling sound and the fridge temp was lower than it should be, so it's probably been building up ice for a while before it caused symptoms. Now I'm wondering if I should just replace the fan unit too since it comes with the defrost thermostat anyhow and the fan was probably running a lot more than usual.
I don't know how to test this thing after it's defrosted. Ideas?
Any advice would be appreciated. My wife wants her fridge back, I don't want to spend $1000+ replacing everything one part at a time. Thanks!
I have a whirlpool WRF736SDAM13 fridge. It started making a weird grumbling noise and the fridge wouldn't stay cool. Initial investigation shows that the freezer cooling coils are all frozen and the ice finally froze up to where the fan can't force cold air up into the fridge any longer. It's defrosting now and I have it partially disassembled. The rear cover panel is frozen to the coils so while I'm waiting for that to thaw, I figured I'd ask for some opinions on where to start diagnosing. I did call a fridge repair guy and he wants about $650 to replace the control board and main thermostat. $350 of that is parts, $200 labor, the rest taxes and shipping.
I'm not convinced. The heating element could have failed, and the defrost thermostat could also have failed. Where the control board is $299, the thermostat is about $40 ($140ish if I buy it along with the fan unit) and the heating element is likewise well under $100. I figure any of those parts could have caused this icing -- the defrost thermostat, the defrost heating element, the primary thermostat, or the control board.
Is there any way to narrow this down? I ran across a little howto regarding using a multimeter to test the defrost thermostat but I don't know how to test the defrost heating element or anything else. I'm trying to avoid just replacing everything one piece at a time, especially since replacing those thermostats and thermocouples require snipping out the old ones and splicing in the new, which is kind of a pain and introduces a potential new failure point.
EDIT - I have the cover off and there is a lot of ice in there, so much that I don't think this failed recently. It was only yesterday that I noticed the grumbling sound and the fridge temp was lower than it should be, so it's probably been building up ice for a while before it caused symptoms. Now I'm wondering if I should just replace the fan unit too since it comes with the defrost thermostat anyhow and the fan was probably running a lot more than usual.
I don't know how to test this thing after it's defrosted. Ideas?
Any advice would be appreciated. My wife wants her fridge back, I don't want to spend $1000+ replacing everything one part at a time. Thanks!
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Can't fix broken weld on Door Hinge
My dishwasher's door droops to one side because the weld holding the hinge bracket on the door broke. GE repairman says they can't fix and the unit must be replaced. The dishwasher works fine and doesn't leak. Seems like a huge waste to replace it. Is it possible?
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Forced defrost and troubleshoot tech sheet whirlpool WRF736SDAM13
Hello,
I'm trying to find out how to enter forced defrost mode, service mode, and also find the tech sheet for troubleshooting defrost mode and control board. I can find this info for several other fridge models but can't seem to find it for mine. It's a whirlpool model WRF736SDAM13
Thanks!
I'm trying to find out how to enter forced defrost mode, service mode, and also find the tech sheet for troubleshooting defrost mode and control board. I can find this info for several other fridge models but can't seem to find it for mine. It's a whirlpool model WRF736SDAM13
Thanks!
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I have crushed ice but nothing else
On my outside display panel, crushed ice works and the green indicator light with it works, night light works, lock works. However, the alarm does not work and neither does the cubed ice or water work. None of these options will light up when pressed and thus will not work.
Please help!
Please help!
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KEBC247KSS05 Cooling Fan making squeaking noise
I have a Double Oven, Top and bottom convection ovens.
My cooling fan (NOT the convection fan) is making a high pitched squeak when I use the upper oven. Is this easy to repair?
It looks like there are two blower assemblies listed for this model?? I only see one of them in the parts diagram... I don't seem to see the dual oven model in any parts diagrams... Strange
I assume that if I'm using the upper oven it would be easy to know which one to replace, if there are two?
Thanks!
My cooling fan (NOT the convection fan) is making a high pitched squeak when I use the upper oven. Is this easy to repair?
It looks like there are two blower assemblies listed for this model?? I only see one of them in the parts diagram... I don't seem to see the dual oven model in any parts diagrams... Strange
I assume that if I'm using the upper oven it would be easy to know which one to replace, if there are two?
Thanks!
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SOS! Help! PO Flashing on Display, Not Cooling.
Our fridge is less than 2 years old, it started having issues about a month ago, the LED lights and ice/water would stop working randomly, I would have to unplug and plug it back in and they would work for a bit until I had to repeat the process. As of four days ago, we now have a PO (power outage) flashing on the display, the ice is melting and overall the fridge seems warmer than it should be. After some research, we replaced 2 control boards part WPW10624574 and WPW10675033. To our dismay, it didn't fix our problem! We did not expect it to break down this fast. Any help is appreciated!
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No High Speed Spin (and just odd behavior...)
Greetings all!
I did some searching around here, and although I couldn't find my exact problem, I did see some really helpful suggestions on other posts.
So...
I have a Whirlpool WFW9400SW02. I bought it used and was told that it needed a new board. (I think I paid $40 for it). It wouldn't properly spin the clothes dry. I checked the drain system and removed everything from it, so that's clear now. I replaced the MCU (refurb I believe), and still nothing. I replaced the CCU (used) with an ET32141 (don't remember what the model was that was in there before but this part was recommended for my machine), and still nothing. I will say this though, and heres where the oddness comes in: When I run the test cycle, it will go into the high speed spin. However, everything in the test cycle is backwards. C04, which should be regular speed and drum clockwise runs at medium and counter-clockwise. C07 and C08 both run clockwise in medium and high speeds respectively. I have tried shutting the water off, pulling the drain plug to completely empty the water out of the system in case of a drain pump issue, but no high speed during Drain and Spin cycle. (The pump launches the water out of the system so I don't think that's it.) This happens no matter which MCU I have in the system.
The codes that I've found, and I don't know how old they are, are:
F25
F20
F25
C04
C00
U11
U00
U00
C00
N42
NC
999
(I'm not sure if all of those are codes or other system information, but that's what I have.)
I also pulled the Tach off and tried to run it. It spun only about once and stopped. I'm getting the proper resistance across those wires as well. I sprayed it off with some contact cleaner as well before putting it back on. I also checked the motor windings and came up with the correct resistance. (all of this was per the repair manual)
I hope I've given enough information to possibly come up with some sort of reasonable explanation. I appreciate the upcoming advice!!!
I did some searching around here, and although I couldn't find my exact problem, I did see some really helpful suggestions on other posts.
So...
I have a Whirlpool WFW9400SW02. I bought it used and was told that it needed a new board. (I think I paid $40 for it). It wouldn't properly spin the clothes dry. I checked the drain system and removed everything from it, so that's clear now. I replaced the MCU (refurb I believe), and still nothing. I replaced the CCU (used) with an ET32141 (don't remember what the model was that was in there before but this part was recommended for my machine), and still nothing. I will say this though, and heres where the oddness comes in: When I run the test cycle, it will go into the high speed spin. However, everything in the test cycle is backwards. C04, which should be regular speed and drum clockwise runs at medium and counter-clockwise. C07 and C08 both run clockwise in medium and high speeds respectively. I have tried shutting the water off, pulling the drain plug to completely empty the water out of the system in case of a drain pump issue, but no high speed during Drain and Spin cycle. (The pump launches the water out of the system so I don't think that's it.) This happens no matter which MCU I have in the system.
The codes that I've found, and I don't know how old they are, are:
F25
F20
F25
C04
C00
U11
U00
U00
C00
N42
NC
999
(I'm not sure if all of those are codes or other system information, but that's what I have.)
I also pulled the Tach off and tried to run it. It spun only about once and stopped. I'm getting the proper resistance across those wires as well. I sprayed it off with some contact cleaner as well before putting it back on. I also checked the motor windings and came up with the correct resistance. (all of this was per the repair manual)
I hope I've given enough information to possibly come up with some sort of reasonable explanation. I appreciate the upcoming advice!!!
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Kenmore 71314 bottom freezer fridge
Bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator that, at first, seemed to have quit making ice, maybe for a couple of days, because the ice bin was almost empty. I put thermometers in both freezer and refrigerator sections, And found the freezer was around 35 deg. F and the refrigerator section was warmer than it should be also. I moved all my frozen stuff out of the freezer section to the freezer in the carport to keep it from defrosting. Since it is under a year old, I scheduled warranty repair with Sears, for the service call to take place next Monday. That was last night. This morning both sections are fine and making ice. First question: what causes that to happen? And, second: should I keep the appointment with the service guy? Id hate for this to happen again in 2 month as the warranty would be over. Bonus question: Are service contracts worth the money? Thanks for the advice!!
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maytag dishwasher mdbh969aww1
does anyone have a tech sheet and wiring diagram for this model? any help would be appreciated.
thanks
thanks
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Convertible Freezer/Refrigerator only Freezes
My convertible Freezer/Refrigerator was operating in freezer mode. It was set to the coldest setting which is Freezer 3. I noticed a lot of ice inside so I decided to defrost. When I took everything out I realized the drain was frozen over. So I turned the unit off and left the door open. I could hear ice falling off the coils so I know it must have been frozen up. Ice was even inside the door, Must be because it was operating in a damp basement. Once all the ice cleared from the drain I wanted to operate in Refrigerator mode. Upon turning the unit on the compressor won't kick in until I set the temperature to Freezer 2 (the second highest setting). I don't want to freeze my food so I set it back to refrigerator 3 and don't hear the compressor running. I left it overnight and put a thermometer inside. In the morning the thermometer read 43°. I had put a few ice packs and cool beverages in the night before to help the unit cool down. I would think at the highest refrigerator mode the temp should be lower than 43°.
My thoughts are this:
1) The temperature sensor is broken and does not read temperature right.
2) There may be ice behind the panel cooling the temp sensor into thinking it is cooler than it really is.
I have not yet taken off the inside back panel of the unit yet to inspect. I plan to leave it on and not open it much and check the temp every few hours.
Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot?
My thoughts are this:
1) The temperature sensor is broken and does not read temperature right.
2) There may be ice behind the panel cooling the temp sensor into thinking it is cooler than it really is.
I have not yet taken off the inside back panel of the unit yet to inspect. I plan to leave it on and not open it much and check the temp every few hours.
Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot?
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old fridge is like member of family, poor cooling shuts off
Yes this fridge is 40+ years old, top freezer, made by whirlpool for sears/kenmore. 106.7625463. Never missed a beat except defrost timer years ago. Found the fridge off with internal temp warm in fridge and freezer, 56 degrees. Light on, no noise from freezer evap fan or condenser fan, no run state. Assumed totally dead, was unloading, and it started up again, sounded normal, cooled to 40 degrees in fridg as set, was about to check freezer temp, felt cold, and it shut off again, no fan noise, light on in fridge. Periodically checked, dead silence, a few hours later, back on, made it down to 45 degrees, then shut off again. A few hours later, it had started up again and was 40 degrees in fridge. Overnight it stopped, not running in am, temp 56. Seems to me that comp/relay would not do this. Also the dead silence of all fans when fridge seems dead, but fans running when alive, is like a power issue. It's as if the cold control was turned to off, or the defrost timer was stuck in the off position. I would really like to save the fridge as a matter of pride.
If the defrost timer is failed off, does the freezer fan still run? If so, then my silent fan eliminates the timer. If defrost timer cycle turns off everything except the fridge light, then I guess it's a possible issue. Would a bad on/off cold switch do this? If so, how do I access and check?
If the defrost timer is failed off, does the freezer fan still run? If so, then my silent fan eliminates the timer. If defrost timer cycle turns off everything except the fridge light, then I guess it's a possible issue. Would a bad on/off cold switch do this? If so, how do I access and check?
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36-3270-00/03 Need help identifying Tappan gas stove model
Hello. I'm new to the forum and this is my first post.
I'm trying to find out when this Tappan gas stove was built, what the model is called and any literature/info I can find on it.
The stove is fully functional and everything works. I had a very difficult time finding 2 used burner knobs (358T142P100) but was ultimately successful.
The model/serial number tag under the stove top is quite worn but appears to be 36-3270-00/03336-10493619.
However, when entering it into parts sites the model number is not recognized.
Images just like the one I'm inquiring about are attached below and any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm trying to find out when this Tappan gas stove was built, what the model is called and any literature/info I can find on it.
The stove is fully functional and everything works. I had a very difficult time finding 2 used burner knobs (358T142P100) but was ultimately successful.
The model/serial number tag under the stove top is quite worn but appears to be 36-3270-00/03336-10493619.
However, when entering it into parts sites the model number is not recognized.
Images just like the one I'm inquiring about are attached below and any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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