Kenmore dehumidifier help

April 17, 2019, 6:55 am

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Hello.

We have a Kenmore KM70 (70 pint) dehumidifier. Total runtime is low, our basement is quite dry and it's only used for the odd emergency (like when we had a small plumbing leak). So maybe it's run 100 hours in its lifetime.

It stopped working. Control board lights up. You turn it on. Fan starts. After a few seconds, compressor kicks in. I walk away and check on it after several hours. The compressor isn't running, and there isn't one drop of water in the tank. Doesn't matter if I use the "auto" setting, or set it for maximum dehumidification and constant running.

I don't know how long the compressor is staying engaged before it stops, but since it's engaging at least, my guess is some kind of sensor is faulty?

Thank you in advance for the assistance!
Brian

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Maytag bottom mount frozen coil and temps creeping up

April 17, 2019, 7:43 am

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and have been using the search function to try to diagnose my problem, but I haven't had much luck. And with this being a time-sensitive matter (fridge is getting warmer and warmer), I figured I'd make this post.

A couple days ago my Maytag french-door fridge with bottom freezer started sounding the temperature alarm. The fridge had climbed into the low 40's and the freezer was at 20 degrees. I cleaned the condenser coils, and verified that the compressor and both fans were running. After removing the back panel in the freezer, the upper half of the evaporator coil was frozen. I thawed it out completely, plugged it back in and waited a day with all the frozen food removed (empty freezer). The temperature was very slow to come back down and the freezer will only cool down to 16 degrees. The fridge was slow to come back down too, but did eventually return to my 38 degree setting. The compressor and fans are running constantly, with the exception of brief pauses every few hours (I assume to not overheat).
I removed the back panel of the freezer again, and tested the defrost element with an ohm meter and got a reading of 28 - which from my research online is acceptable. I tested the defrost thermostat and got no continuity so I have a new one on the way.
My question is, even with a clear evaporator coil and fans running properly, why is the system very slow to cool and can't get any lower than 16 degrees in the freezer? Does the defrost thermostat just control the defrost element operation, or does it also affect the cooling rate? I did notice that there are small areas of green corrosion on the compressor lines - freon leak maybe (see pictures)? But if it was a slow freon leak, wouldn't the temperatures slowly come up as opposed to just going from 0 to 20 degrees overnight?

Thanks so very much in advance for any help with this!!

Attached Thumbnails

       

PDT750SS8FSS - Everything looks and sound fines, but no water

April 17, 2019, 8:48 am

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I have struggled with this dishwasher for a few years now. The drain and the air gap have given me trouble a few times a year. Recently it stopped working, pulled out the coat hanger and shop vac, cleaned and vacuumed the drain and air gap. Worked a few times, now it is doing the same thing...it will light up and it will run, meaning you can hear it doing stuff and it will complete a cycle but there is no water at all. I clean out the filter and ultrafine filter, banged on the flood sensor, got in and vacuumed drain, but still nothing. I do not want to call a repair man...please help!

GE Gas Range Randomly Comes On

April 17, 2019, 8:57 am

≫ Next: Kenmore (Frigidaire) Electric Oven slow to pre heat

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I have a 2002 GE gas range that has recently begun coming on randomly. I am aware that it is the thermostat. In the meantime will unplugging the range from the electric outlet prevent it from coming on? It does not operate from a pilot light. Thanks!

Kenmore (Frigidaire) Electric Oven slow to pre heat

April 17, 2019, 9:21 am

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Oven now takes extremely long to pre heat. Previously would take 15 minutes to preheat to 350 degrees. Now it wil take 45 minutes and only get to 233 degrees. The display box shows a solid red line on the bottom for 50 seconds then a broken red line on the top for 10 seconds.

I have done the following troubleshooting.

Power - The stove top burners work as normal. They heat up within seconds. I read that this means the 240V power coming to the oven is OK. I did switch off the circuit breaker and turn it on again but it made no difference.

MultiMeter - I checked the Baking element for resistance (approx 16 ohms) and the Broiling element for resistance (approx 14 ohms) and the Temperatiure sensor probe for resistance (approx 1080 ohms).

I have visually inspected the control board and did not see any damage, however I am not an expert and not sure what I am looking for.

I am hesitant to order a control board because of the cost and the fact that I cannot return it once I open the package and install it. Anyway to confirm the control board is the cause, or any ideas of what else may be the cause?

665.13123K703 Water Remains Cold

April 16, 2019, 6:56 pm

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Going through the hell of a new kitchen. It's been 3 weeks and counting. The usual setbacks, delays, and screw ups. Fired the first contractor when I realized he couldn't have possibly lifted a tool of any kind prior to walking into my kitchen. But that's another story for another time.
Making progress, maybe 85% finished. Water hookup a few days ago, (I was quite tired of washing dishes with the garden hose). Turned on the dishwasher for the first time in about 3 weeks and the wash cycle never got hot. It's 9 years old.
So, what went wrong? Did the fired knucklehead somehow screw up the dishwasher installation? Is that even possible? From what I see, (check photo), the hot water valve on the lower left is connected to the dishwasher. And for what it's worth, we have hot water from the sink. Am I looking at another expense in my kitchen remodel hell?

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MVWC415EW0 Replaced shift actuator, still wont spin

April 16, 2019, 8:24 pm

≫ Next: WSF26CEXW01 Side by side not getting cold

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Ran diagnostic and got F7 E1 code. Replaced shifter/actuator. Still won't spin. Starts and stops. Ran manual diagnostic and got to spin/agitator tests and lid lock won't come on to complete the tests. Lid lock test worked fine. Problem with lid lock or control panel?

WSF26CEXW01 Side by side not getting cold

April 16, 2019, 9:17 pm

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Fridge isn't getting cold. Both fans are running and the Compressor checks out for continuity rc+sc=rs and no found shorts. I replaced the run/start relay with a Supco 3in1. Do I need to install the capacitor with that. The cap. has no continuity between terminals and is bad. I thought the 3in1 eliminated the need for it ? :wall: :stupid:

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MFD2562VEM Maytag bottom mount frozen coil and temps creeping up

April 17, 2019, 7:43 am

≫ Next: JGBS22BEA2CT GE Gas Range Randomly Comes On

≪ Previous: WSF26CEXW01 Side by side not getting cold

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and have been using the search function to try to diagnose my problem, but I haven't had much luck. And with this being a time-sensitive matter (fridge is getting warmer and warmer), I figured I'd make this post.

A couple days ago my Maytag french-door fridge with bottom freezer started sounding the temperature alarm. The fridge had climbed into the low 40's and the freezer was at 20 degrees. I cleaned the condenser coils, and verified that the compressor and both fans were running. After removing the back panel in the freezer, the upper half of the evaporator coil was frozen. I thawed it out completely, plugged it back in and waited a day with all the frozen food removed (empty freezer). The temperature was very slow to come back down and the freezer will only cool down to 16 degrees. The fridge was slow to come back down too, but did eventually return to my 38 degree setting. The compressor and fans are running constantly, with the exception of brief pauses every few hours (I assume to not overheat).
I removed the back panel of the freezer again, and tested the defrost element with an ohm meter and got a reading of 28 - which from my research online is acceptable. I tested the defrost thermostat and got no continuity so I have a new one on the way.
My question is, even with a clear evaporator coil and fans running properly, why is the system very slow to cool and can't get any lower than 16 degrees in the freezer? Does the defrost thermostat just control the defrost element operation, or does it also affect the cooling rate? I did notice that there are small areas of green corrosion on the compressor lines - freon leak maybe (see pictures)? But if it was a slow freon leak, wouldn't the temperatures slowly come up as opposed to just going from 0 to 20 degrees overnight?

Thanks so very much in advance for any help with this!!

Attached Thumbnails

       

JGBS22BEA2CT GE Gas Range Randomly Comes On

April 17, 2019, 8:57 am

≫ Next: 970-687623 Kenmore (Frigidaire) Electric Oven slow to preheat

≪ Previous: MFD2562VEM Maytag bottom mount frozen coil and temps creeping up

$

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I have a 2002 GE gas range that has recently begun coming on randomly. I am aware that it is the thermostat. In the meantime will unplugging the range from the electric outlet prevent it from coming on? It does not operate from a pilot light. Thanks!

970-687623 Kenmore (Frigidaire) Electric Oven slow to preheat

April 17, 2019, 9:21 am

≫ Next: Whirlpool GSQ9669LW0 (ser CP0412236) makes clickiing/banging noise during spin

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Oven now takes extremely long to pre heat. Previously would take 15 minutes to preheat to 350 degrees. Now it wil take 45 minutes and only get to 233 degrees. The display box shows a solid red line on the bottom for 50 seconds then a broken red line on the top for 10 seconds.

I have done the following troubleshooting.

Power - The stove top burners work as normal. They heat up within seconds. I read that this means the 240V power coming to the oven is OK. I did switch off the circuit breaker and turn it on again but it made no difference.

MultiMeter - I checked the Baking element for resistance (approx 16 ohms) and the Broiling element for resistance (approx 14 ohms) and the Temperatiure sensor probe for resistance (approx 1080 ohms).

I have visually inspected the control board and did not see any damage, however I am not an expert and not sure what I am looking for.

I am hesitant to order a control board because of the cost and the fact that I cannot return it once I open the package and install it. Anyway to confirm the control board is the cause, or any ideas of what else may be the cause?

Whirlpool GSQ9669LW0 (ser CP0412236) makes clickiing/banging noise during spin

April 17, 2019, 12:46 pm

≫ Next: GE XL44 igniter won't turn on

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I just noticed that our washer is making a fairly loud steady clunking noise during the spin cycle. I don't think it has been a gradual buildup of noise, rather a pretty sudden onset. It is in the garage and we aren't usually in there during a spin cycle, but my wife says she would have heard it through the wall that connects to our living room. I happened to be washing some work clothes, rags, gloves, etc. & I was in the garage working when I first heard it. I ran them through fill-agitate-drain a few times in a row until the water was stayed clear-ish with agitation.

After agitation, the washer will spin during the the drain & build up to a pretty fast speed without making the noise at all. Then it stops for a few seconds & moves to the spin cycle, and at that time the noise begins. The noise is steady -- it starts immediately when the spin cycle kicks in & keeps the same steady rhythm as the washer spins up. It also works up to a higher speed spin the first time (draining) when not making the noise compared to when making the noise during the spin cycle; I have no idea if that speed difference of the two cycles is normal or not -- I would have assumed it to be the opposite, so I thought it might be relevant to the noise issue.

The symptom of noise is very consistent -- always occurs immediately when turning the dial to spin cycle for any of the programs. Even when empty of clothes and/or water. And the spin during drain is always relatively quiet.

I haven't started to disassemble it all, because I have never messed with a washer before. I'm not afraid to though -- just didn't want to screw anything up before getting an idea of what the issue is. I can post a video of it if that would help ( at least I assume I can do that on this forum). Thanks.

GE XL44 igniter won't turn on

April 17, 2019, 1:50 pm

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I replaced a broken igniter with a brand new one. When I initially plugged it up, it lit up. I unplugged it and proceeded to install it. I removed the quick connect and the wiring to the gas valve, and connected the igniter, with new connectors to the gas valve connection (the existing wiring broke off at the gas valve, so I removed the clip connect and went directly to the valve). When it didn't light up, I tested it for continuity, and it Ohmed out to zeroes. But I get no voltage at the gas valve. When does it become charged, or should it always have voltage there?

Trick for Removing tub springs

April 17, 2019, 3:05 pm

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I am trying to pull the tub/drum from a samsung BigWash to do a postmortem (there is a grinding sound going on so bad sounding that i am.not even thinking of repair. I'm mostly just curious. Like if.my tenants' child slipped a toy car in there or something)

Is there a trick for Removing the springs the drum hangs from?

Some.videos show a clever system where you can rotate the plastic grommet at the top hook and drop it down.
This setup does not have that.

I expect I need to find a forked tool of some.kind to push down on the lower U hook. But maybe there is a smarter way.

Refrigerator Not Cooling

April 17, 2019, 4:18 pm

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My refrigerator is not cooling. It appears that the compressor is not running. When starting (relay clicks), it draws 10.6 A (ammeter clamped on power lead). The LRA is 21.6 A, so I am confused to why the compressor does not run. The relay clicks on................clicks off every minute or so.
The evaporator and condenser fans are both running (both replaced last year). The condenser coils were also cleaned last year.
Thank you for your assistance.

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TG21VL Refrigerator Not Cooling

April 17, 2019, 4:18 pm

≫ Next: Ge Dishwasher door lights blinking when door is closed in Consumer Error Mode,

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My refrigerator is not cooling. It appears that the compressor is not running. When starting (relay clicks), it draws 10.6 A (ammeter clamped on power lead). The LRA is 21.6 A, so I am confused to why the compressor does not run. The relay clicks on................clicks off every minute or so.
The evaporator and condenser fans are both running (both replaced last year). The condenser coils were also cleaned last year.
Thank you for your assistance.

Ge Dishwasher door lights blinking when door is closed in Consumer Error Mode,

April 17, 2019, 7:01 pm

≫ Next: Maytag MDG5500 slow to dry

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I changed the door switch when i do the Consumer Error Mode the lights still blink even though the door is closed. any idea why ?

Maytag MDG5500 slow to dry

April 17, 2019, 7:06 pm

≫ Next: GDT545PSJ2SS GE Dishwasher door lights blinking when door is closed in Consumer Error Mode,

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Dryer used to take 50-some minutes to dry a normal load at the max drying temp ("normal"). Now it says 84 minutes before it starts and it's pretty accurate. that's how long it actually takes. I thought it was the gas valve coils so I replaced them, but no improvement. The burner cycles on and off, don't know if it does correctly. It does get warm/hot inside, I don't know if it's the correct temp or not. No exhaust obstruction or anything else abnormal that I can tell. Any suggestions?

Oh, and just wondering. How does it know before it starts how long it's going to take? Does it just start with a standard preset number and then adjusts as it senses moisture inside? Seems awfully accurate for an initial guess.

Edit: sorry, the age is incorrect. Can't edit that. It's probably 10 years old.

GDT545PSJ2SS GE Dishwasher door lights blinking when door is closed in Consumer Error Mode,

April 17, 2019, 7:01 pm

≫ Next: KBFS25EVMS KitchenAid Architect II French Door Refridgerator- Freezer working, Fridge HOT

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I changed the door switch when i do the Consumer Error Mode the lights still blink even though the door is closed. any idea why ?

KBFS25EVMS KitchenAid Architect II French Door Refridgerator- Freezer working, Fridge HOT

April 18, 2019, 6:44 am

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I need help! The fridge portion is hot freezer is -4. Evaporator fan is blowing. Compressor seems to be working. No air coming out of top damper fan "shute." I have cleaned the coils (they were just slightly dusty). I'm thinking it is the damper control assembly but do not know how to test it. Worried it might be the control board which they don't make anymore. The fridge side of control board panel does not adjust. Please advise...