My dryer stopped heating. Replaced element. Got too hot. Put a thermal cut kit in. Then it wouldn't spin. Put a new motor in. Current status: heater turns on if it's just plugged in and it won't spin. It just makes a clicking sound when I press the start button. Need help please.
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Whirlpool Ultimate Care Ii Dryer problems
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three cycles to dry
Model #11069822801. Kenmore dryer. Takes three cycles to dry a load. It DOES make heat, but not drying in a normal time frame. Have vacuumed out the exhaust area. Any ideas if this is a faulty thermal cut off or high limit fuse ?.. and i so how do you get to them...the Sears site videos all show a dryer with a back panel that just screws off... this dryer does NOT open that way.
ideas??
Thanks
ideas??
Thanks
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Kenmore elite fridge model 106.50443901 dumping ice/motor still running???
This just started last night ---all of sudden the ice dispencer started ejecting and sending ice cubes to the our kitchen floor!!!
Trying to figure out why this is happening? Turned off the water line in the back but the motor/auger is still running and turning on every 5-10 min. For no reason?
Please help! I contacted sears and they were no help except to send out a tech to see it for $99.00 bucks!!
Thanks in advance for the help!
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I HAVE THE OP'S AND PARTS BREAKDOWN OF MY MODEL BUT NOT SURE WHAT THE ACTUAL CAUSE IS??
Trying to figure out why this is happening? Turned off the water line in the back but the motor/auger is still running and turning on every 5-10 min. For no reason?
Please help! I contacted sears and they were no help except to send out a tech to see it for $99.00 bucks!!
Thanks in advance for the help!
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I HAVE THE OP'S AND PARTS BREAKDOWN OF MY MODEL BUT NOT SURE WHAT THE ACTUAL CAUSE IS??
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110.74612200 Dryer not drying clothes for 90 minutes
Hello,
I had a dryer vent installed around 1 month ago. It is the aluminum type and runs around 15 to the outside. This connect to a semi rigid vent that goes to my dryer. There is 1 90 degree elbow.
Around 1 week ago, I noticed the dryer taking longer to dry clothes. An average cotton shirt load would take around 80-90 minutes when it used to take 45-50. I checked the vent for clogs and the vent and outside flap is working fine. When I open the dryer door mid cycle the air is warm but not hot like it used to be.
I'm wondering if has to do with the new vent. If so, and I buy a new dryer then the same thing may happen. Is it causing my dryer to fail early?
Do you think that is it a fluke thing and maybe the coils?
I don't know anything about appliance repair and I'm just ok with general repairs.
Any suggestions would be great.
I had a dryer vent installed around 1 month ago. It is the aluminum type and runs around 15 to the outside. This connect to a semi rigid vent that goes to my dryer. There is 1 90 degree elbow.
Around 1 week ago, I noticed the dryer taking longer to dry clothes. An average cotton shirt load would take around 80-90 minutes when it used to take 45-50. I checked the vent for clogs and the vent and outside flap is working fine. When I open the dryer door mid cycle the air is warm but not hot like it used to be.
I'm wondering if has to do with the new vent. If so, and I buy a new dryer then the same thing may happen. Is it causing my dryer to fail early?
Do you think that is it a fluke thing and maybe the coils?
I don't know anything about appliance repair and I'm just ok with general repairs.
Any suggestions would be great.
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RF111PXSQ1 Whirlpool Oven won't come on.
Both heating elements test good for continuity, and the temperature sensor tests @ 1.097 ohms. Top burners and inside light work. I'm thinking thermal fuse?
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Whirlpool Ultimate Care Dryer problems
My dryer stopped heating. Replaced element. Got too hot. Put a thermal cut kit in. Then it wouldn't spin. Put a new motor in. Current status: heater turns on if it's just plugged in and it won't spin. It just makes a clicking sound when I press the start button. Need help please.
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110.69822801 Three cycles to dry
Model #110.69822801. Kenmore dryer. Takes three cycles to dry a load. It DOES make heat, but not drying in a normal time frame. Have vacuumed out the exhaust area. Any ideas if this is a faulty thermal cut off or high limit fuse ?.. and i so how do you get to them...the Sears site videos all show a dryer with a back panel that just screws off... this dryer does NOT open that way.
ideas??
Thanks
ideas??
Thanks
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Change light bulb function
I have a full upright fridge that I converted to a beef aging fridge. I have the standard halogen at the top by the door when it's opened. What I'd like to do is put in a UV light (standard E26 base) and have it controlled by a toggle on the exterior panel of the door or side of the fridge.
Anyone know how I would change the wiring for this?
Anyone know how I would change the wiring for this?
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MAV208DAWW Maytag Top Load Washer, Not spinning properly
My older Maytag top loader is no longer spinning fast enough to remove the excess water. After reading several posts on this washer, I decided to replace the Thrust Bearing Kit and belt. Although the kit came with a thicker washer, I could not get the C clip to slide over the washer. I tried filing down the ends of the C clip and tried using a screwdriver, but I could not do it. Prior to changing the thrust bearing kit, there was a "squeal" sometimes in the wash cycle and when the spin cycle ended (no longer have a squeal). I watch the spin cycle and the agitator moves as if it washing, but the drum is spinning slowly. What I want to understand is, even though I could not get the thicker washer on, and the original washer was the Thin washer, when I manually turn the pully counter clock wise (CCW) should the brake assembly (right above the thrust bearing and spacer) move along with the CCW action. My pulley turns freely when going in the CCW direction, which seems to tell me the brake system is not functioning at all? Thanks.
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A Newb with a Nash-Kelvinator Fridge
Hello Everyone!
I have, for all of my life, loved the vintage look of appliances. Call me weird, that's fine, I dont mind being weird. Well in the search to get myself a working primary fridge, despite finishing up college and being broke, I pickedup a working Kelvinator on Craigslist for $50! It says it is a Model: HM-R.
Of course, it isnt in that great of shape, and I hope to fix some of that with your guys' help. I just plugged it in for the first time since seeing it work at the previous owners house. I left it sit upright for 24 hours after getting it home, then for an hour after finally getting it repositioned. It hums away and seems to be fine.
It looks like i will need to do a little bit of sanding by the handle, and put a littlke appliance paint on there, but that shouldnt be too bad. My big question is, the freezer door just kind of pops down once you open the door. I dont see any sort of latch or friction way to keep the door up, but there has to have been something. Anyone know what that can be? I might just put a cork in the bottom for now and just pull that out every time I need the freezer.
Also, the sticker on the inside door says to revert to the service manual for defrosting instructions. Does anyone have the original manual on PDF? Or know where I can get one?
And finally, on the handle itself, there is a small, I assume it was plastic of some sort, insert that is long since gone. Does anyone know what that could have been? Or have one that can be 3d printed?
So far I love this thing and want to keep it with its original parts, and if it fails, maintain it using its original systems. I'm a nerd when it comes to antiques and I dont mind if its been restored, but as long as its been factory restored. No modern mods lol. Getting this thing to fit in my 1972 VW bus was a treat, but I'm glad to be part of the community! Edit: Oh, and does anyone know what year this machine is? I cannot seem to find the year anywhere on this? Thank you again!
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I have, for all of my life, loved the vintage look of appliances. Call me weird, that's fine, I dont mind being weird. Well in the search to get myself a working primary fridge, despite finishing up college and being broke, I pickedup a working Kelvinator on Craigslist for $50! It says it is a Model: HM-R.
Of course, it isnt in that great of shape, and I hope to fix some of that with your guys' help. I just plugged it in for the first time since seeing it work at the previous owners house. I left it sit upright for 24 hours after getting it home, then for an hour after finally getting it repositioned. It hums away and seems to be fine.
It looks like i will need to do a little bit of sanding by the handle, and put a littlke appliance paint on there, but that shouldnt be too bad. My big question is, the freezer door just kind of pops down once you open the door. I dont see any sort of latch or friction way to keep the door up, but there has to have been something. Anyone know what that can be? I might just put a cork in the bottom for now and just pull that out every time I need the freezer.
Also, the sticker on the inside door says to revert to the service manual for defrosting instructions. Does anyone have the original manual on PDF? Or know where I can get one?
And finally, on the handle itself, there is a small, I assume it was plastic of some sort, insert that is long since gone. Does anyone know what that could have been? Or have one that can be 3d printed?
So far I love this thing and want to keep it with its original parts, and if it fails, maintain it using its original systems. I'm a nerd when it comes to antiques and I dont mind if its been restored, but as long as its been factory restored. No modern mods lol. Getting this thing to fit in my 1972 VW bus was a treat, but I'm glad to be part of the community! Edit: Oh, and does anyone know what year this machine is? I cannot seem to find the year anywhere on this? Thank you again!
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Maytag Dryer makes Clicking noise but doesn't run
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Hi all,
My maytag Dryer recently stopped working. It turns on, but when I hit the Hold to Start button, it makes a clicking sound and doesn't run. I took it apart according to the diagnostic manual below the dryer and ran a motor test and found that the motor circuit appeared to have left a burn mark on the metal frame. Do you guys think I should replace my circuit board, or should I continue testing?
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Maytag - Broiler wont turn off
I have a Maytag electric double oven #CWE5800ACB which has been working fine. I had the oven baking at 425 for 2 hours. Then used the broiler for about 15 minutes. Oven started beeping and displaying error code F3. I needed to flip switch at breaker to shut the oven/broiler off as hitting the cancel button did not work. Maybe the oven overheated? No clue.
Several hours later, after oven cooled, I flipped breaker back on and immediately the broiler came on. I hadn't even turned the oven on at that point. Once again, I turned off at breaker as pushing cancel did not work to turn the broiler off. Tried once again the next day and same thing happened.
I understand that it could be the temp sensor but why would a faulty sensor make the broiler come on when not selected to do so. Or, when the oven hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm thinking this has to be a really expensive job if I call a repair person? Can anyone help?
Thank you
Several hours later, after oven cooled, I flipped breaker back on and immediately the broiler came on. I hadn't even turned the oven on at that point. Once again, I turned off at breaker as pushing cancel did not work to turn the broiler off. Tried once again the next day and same thing happened.
I understand that it could be the temp sensor but why would a faulty sensor make the broiler come on when not selected to do so. Or, when the oven hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm thinking this has to be a really expensive job if I call a repair person? Can anyone help?
Thank you
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DCVH640GJ1WW Scraping noise in BACK of drum
This started with a squeaking noise on a 7-year old GE dryer. So I purchased a new idler pulley and the 4 glides (2 green 2 teflon) for the front bearing and decided since I was going to have the whole thing apart anyways, I'd order the rear bearing assembly with the other parts and replace it as well. I disassembled and reassembled the unit and my squeak was gone- woohoo- but now I have a damn scraping noise in the back of the drum. What was odd is it only happens for about 1/8 of the rotation. Upon further review, I could watch the drum move front to back to front to back to... about 1/8-1/4 inch as it rotated (it scraped each time it went to the BACK of the machine) so I took another step and since the front plastic drum support bearing had worn from the glides being bad, I ordered and replaced that as well as the felt strip on the bottom. I still have the same problem even though the front to back to front to.. movement has been cut in about half. That said, I can put light pressure on the back of the drum while it's rotating, pushing it towards the front, and stop the noise completely. I'm at a loss on how I could have introduced a new problem by adding new parts. Thoughts?
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LEB6400KQ1 Whirlpool Ultimate Care Dryer problems
My dryer stopped heating. Replaced element. Got too hot. Put a thermal cut kit in. Then it wouldn't spin. Put a new motor in. Current status: heater turns on if it's just plugged in and it won't spin. It just makes a clicking sound when I press the start button. Need help please.
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MED9600SQ0 Maytag Dryer makes Clicking noise but doesn't run
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Hi all,
My maytag Dryer recently stopped working. It turns on, but when I hit the Hold to Start button, it makes a clicking sound and doesn't run. I took it apart according to the diagnostic manual below the dryer and ran a motor test and found that the motor circuit appeared to have left a burn mark on the metal frame. Do you guys think I should replace my circuit board, or should I continue testing?
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CWE5800ACB Maytag - Broiler wont turn off
I have a Maytag electric double oven #CWE5800ACB which has been working fine. I had the oven baking at 425 for 2 hours. Then used the broiler for about 15 minutes. Oven started beeping and displaying error code F3. I needed to flip switch at breaker to shut the oven/broiler off as hitting the cancel button did not work. Maybe the oven overheated? No clue.
Several hours later, after oven cooled, I flipped breaker back on and immediately the broiler came on. I hadn't even turned the oven on at that point. Once again, I turned off at breaker as pushing cancel did not work to turn the broiler off. Tried once again the next day and same thing happened.
I understand that it could be the temp sensor but why would a faulty sensor make the broiler come on when not selected to do so. Or, when the oven hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm thinking this has to be a really expensive job if I call a repair person? Can anyone help?
Thank you
Several hours later, after oven cooled, I flipped breaker back on and immediately the broiler came on. I hadn't even turned the oven on at that point. Once again, I turned off at breaker as pushing cancel did not work to turn the broiler off. Tried once again the next day and same thing happened.
I understand that it could be the temp sensor but why would a faulty sensor make the broiler come on when not selected to do so. Or, when the oven hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm thinking this has to be a really expensive job if I call a repair person? Can anyone help?
Thank you
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Where to go next? FPHB2899LF5 persistent failures
Hi all,
I've got a Frigidaire FPHB2899LF5 that has just fallen out of warranty (of course) and have been having persistent problems with it.
Aside from the usual ice/water issues (had the whole ice unit replaced three years ago), it's been failing for the past month.
At first failure, both the inverter and control boards were repaired by a local repair shop and worked well for 48 hours. I was told there was extensive damage on the boards requiring many solders.
However, the temperature crept back up and the compressor stopped working. I'm told the possible cause of the second failure was a temp sensor in the ice maker coming loose, getting caught in the auger and pulled out, resulting in damage to a board or two.
Anyway, fast forward through lots of waiting around and a new inverter board installed yesterday. Everything cooled down as expected (after waiting a couple of hours for the compressor to kick in) and then the freezer dropped to minus 19 for the freezer and plus 3 celsius for the fridge.
This morning, the fridge is still at 3 but the freezer is also at 3.
My repair guy said that the control board was the next likely replacement to try, but I'm wondering if it's worth it. I'm wondering if it's just good money after bad now?
He insists that all sensors and every test he can run comes back fine - but I'm wondering if I don't just cut my losses, pay for what's been done so far and scrap the unit?
Any advice welcome!
I've got a Frigidaire FPHB2899LF5 that has just fallen out of warranty (of course) and have been having persistent problems with it.
Aside from the usual ice/water issues (had the whole ice unit replaced three years ago), it's been failing for the past month.
At first failure, both the inverter and control boards were repaired by a local repair shop and worked well for 48 hours. I was told there was extensive damage on the boards requiring many solders.
However, the temperature crept back up and the compressor stopped working. I'm told the possible cause of the second failure was a temp sensor in the ice maker coming loose, getting caught in the auger and pulled out, resulting in damage to a board or two.
Anyway, fast forward through lots of waiting around and a new inverter board installed yesterday. Everything cooled down as expected (after waiting a couple of hours for the compressor to kick in) and then the freezer dropped to minus 19 for the freezer and plus 3 celsius for the fridge.
This morning, the fridge is still at 3 but the freezer is also at 3.
My repair guy said that the control board was the next likely replacement to try, but I'm wondering if it's worth it. I'm wondering if it's just good money after bad now?
He insists that all sensors and every test he can run comes back fine - but I'm wondering if I don't just cut my losses, pay for what's been done so far and scrap the unit?
Any advice welcome!
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795.74093410 Kenmore Elite French Door, No Cooling Properly
Kenmore Elite French Door fridge model 795.74093410. Noticed it was not cooling correctly for a few weeks and this week we had to stop using the freezer and the fridge for milk, etc. Icemaker also not making ice. Had a guy out who said all was running fine but condensor was really dirty, so he cleaned that really well and couldn't see any other issue. Seems like a simple solution but not sure that was it as fridge still not working right. Fridge seems cooler today but haven't trusted it to put anything back but the freezer still isn't freezing ice or ice packs and no ice is being made. We can have someone out again but want to have an idea of what to ask about since it seems *something is wrong with this fridge.
This fridge is less than 2 years and now we see it was a bad purchase and we are so frustrated that it's not working right. Thankfully we have a second older fridge that has saved our food.
This fridge is less than 2 years and now we see it was a bad purchase and we are so frustrated that it's not working right. Thankfully we have a second older fridge that has saved our food.
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EFMG617SIW Electrolux - Blemish on stainless steel drum
Just received brand new dryer and noticed a nickel sized blemish on the stainless steel drum. It feels smooth to the touch, but is obviously a blemish (see attached picture). Any concerns that this may become a rust spot? Called Electrolux "help line" and they said they didn't know if it would be a problem or not, but that they would not expect there to be any blemish. Any input appreciated.
Thanks.Attachment 32496
Thanks.Attachment 32496
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WTW4950XW3 loud during spin cycle
washing machine started to get really loud during the spin cycle you can hear it thru the whole house , could it be the drive belt or more costly motor ? i see some have bearings that wear out too, how should i go about troubleshooting ? its not loud during the wash cycle.
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