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GSH25JSXNSST Top frosting, ice maker frozen, ice cubes block of ice

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Defrost element fixed iced coils - but now top frosting, ice maker frozen, ice cubes block of ice

Woke up to some water coming from freezer. This forum helped my deduce frozen coils. Yep, they were a block of ice. Pulled defrost element and it was in fact dead via volt meter and continuity test. Probably had been for some time I suspect and was why we were not getting water thru water dispenser. Defrosted coils with hair dryer and replaced defrost element which turned bright orange and was heating right away when turned on. And we have water thru dispenser again! Yay!

However, we have new remnant or related problems. Now items on the top shelf of freezer are frosted, ice maker wont crank (seems frozen), and ice cubes in tray become a block of ice easily.

Lower 75% of freezer seems perfect.

All thought welcome and appreciated.

Bravos XL 850 Bearings Issue

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My Maytag Washer is about 5 years old. 3.5 years in, I had the 'Sounds like a jet plane' issue where I needed the bearings kit. I had a tech replace them and now 1.5 years later, same issue. This leaves me with 2 choices:
--Replace the washer with an LG. I'm told LG is way better and doesn't have this issue
--Replace the bearings again maybe with better ones

Has anyone used Nachi bearings? I see they are from Japan and could be much better quality than what comes in the replacement kit. I am not sure of this though and I don't want to spend another $250 on this service unless I know this will laster longer. I'm not comfortable doing the job myself, so, I need to hire a tech.

I can't believe there isn't a class action lawsuit or recall about this. Tons of people have the bearings problem. Very sad for what was once the top of the line brand in appliances.

Damian

Ice maker leaks water into ice tray

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Ice maker make ice, but leaks water into the tray, causing a big block of ice in the dispenser. Good water pressure and clean filter. Any suggestions? Thanks!

VERY Unique troubleshooting issue. No one has yet to provide a solution

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Hello. I've attempted all troubleshooting techniques that I am capable. Please make any suggestions you may have. No other forums have provided any viable suggestions...

Dryer: Maytag MDE2400AYW

Problem: Dryer producing very little heat.
Assumptions: Problem with Resetable Thermal fuse (sensor), High Limit Thermostat (sensor), Thermistor (sensor), or Heating element.

Troubleshooting steps:
Took top off unit so I could see the element condition while running. Turned unit on and I could feel low heat, but the element was not glowing red. I then removed the element from the unit and placed on the floor and connected back to harness. Turned on unit and element glowed full red. I then checked for continuity, resistance, and ground short (element housing continuity with element). All looked ok. So then moved on to other items.

Placed element back in unit. I then removed both the Resetable Thermal fuse and High Limit Thermostat from the back of the element housing cover (but kept the wires connected) and placed off to the side. Turned unit on, same low heat issue. Then I pulled the wires from both of these 'sensors' and hard wired the harnesses together to completely remove them from the schematic (totally closed circuit). Turned unit on, same issue. Checked both sensors for continuity, both ok.

Ok, got to be the Thermistor. I then removed the Thermistor from the fan duct. Kept the wires connected, pulled Thermistor outside unit, placed inside towel to isolate from any temperature changes. Turned unit on, SAME ISSUE. So not a sensor problem. I checked the Thermistor resistance at 68 degrees and matched exactly the service manual (60K Ohm) and then changed ambient temperature while testing resistance and thermistor reacted accordingly.

Ok here's the kicker...
Now, the element is installed, the two thermostats (sensors) are disconnected and their harnesses hard-wired together, and the thermistor is connected but outside the unit inside a towel. I then remove the lint filter, check for any obstructions in the blower and tape the door switch closed. I open the door to 90 degrees. I turn the unit on... and WHOA, full red glow form the element. I then start closing the door and when it gets to about 1" from shutting, the element starts to decrease in glow, At door fully closed, the element goes back to no red glow, but producing low heat. WTF!!! I have removed all the sensors from the electrical equation and element is still reacting to something.

Now, time to take out the service manual and check for codes and resistances through the board. No codes show up, and all the diagnostic steps and resistance tests through the board show anything wrong. I even tested the voltage across the element while the door was moving to turn the element from red to low heat and the voltage remained at 240V.

Is it possible that air blowing past a "weak" element is causing it to cool off? Or is there some other sensor that I am missing and is not on the schematic that is reacting when outside air starts to be pulled through the element and then warm air from the glowing element through the unit blower. The blower seems to be working perfect and the drum is turning as always.

I have attached the last page of the service manual for the Schematic.

Please any suggestions are worth trying at this point. The dryer is pretty old and the element is one of those self contained pricey units (over $100) so not worth replacing to troubleshoot.

Thanks in advance
Attached Files

Maytag LAT8640BAL tub cover replacement - how to and parts needed?

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I would like to replace the tub cover on this washer. The old one is rusting and sometimes rubs rust flakes off on the laundry.

How difficult is this to replace? I am unable to discover any online videos for removing the tub cover on this particular type of machine. (I am screwdriver and wrench capable, not so skilled beyond that.)

Are there any seals or other parts that could break in the removal process or will be too worn out to go back together well?

Thank you.

PT7800SH5SS - Double Oven...microwave acting up with buzzing sound

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Convection works fine but using regular microwave makes loud buzzing sound when starting to run. Light and base spin but not sure that we get heat with microwave option. It’s only 1 year old.

MVWB850YW0 Bravos XL 850 Bearings Issue

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My Maytag Washer is about 5 years old. 3.5 years in, I had the 'Sounds like a jet plane' issue where I needed the bearings kit. I had a tech replace them and now 1.5 years later, same issue. This leaves me with 2 choices:
--Replace the washer with an LG. I'm told LG is way better and doesn't have this issue
--Replace the bearings again maybe with better ones

Has anyone used Nachi bearings? I see they are from Japan and could be much better quality than what comes in the replacement kit. I am not sure of this though and I don't want to spend another $250 on this service unless I know this will laster longer. I'm not comfortable doing the job myself, so, I need to hire a tech.

I can't believe there isn't a class action lawsuit or recall about this. Tons of people have the bearings problem. Very sad for what was once the top of the line brand in appliances.

Damian

MFI2569VEM10 Ice maker leaks water into ice tray

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Ice maker make ice, but leaks water into the tray, causing a big block of ice in the dispenser. Good water pressure and clean filter. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Dryer quit.

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Earlier today, when I pushed start button, it would just buzz...no movement. Then I had to manually spin the drum then I could shut the door and it would run. Now it will not turn on, nor any sound. ? This is a Kenmore 90 Series.

Wash Plate Not Releasing from Drive Shaft Spindle

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I am posting this in the Kenmore Washer forum as I could not find an LG forum.
However the same washer is sold by Sears.

I have an LG WT5101HV Wave Force Top Loading Washer.

I need to replace the Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly. To do this I need to remove the Wash Plate and Wash Tub.

I have been following a Repair Clinic Video. The specific spot on the video appears at approximately 1:29 minutes of the 9:13 minute video.



It's a great video and very clear except they are demonstrating on a new washer where every part is easy to remove.

I have removed the Wash Cap and the 10mm bolt / screw securing the Wash Plate. But no matter how I try I can't get the WASH PLATE to release off of the Drive Shaft Spindle.

  • I have tried wiggling it from side to side.
  • I have placed coat hanger hooks into the 3 alignment holes for the Wash Cap and tried pulling it off.
  • I have place a polypropylene rope under and across the bottom of the Wash Plate so as to pull it loose.
  • I am pulling in both instances with such force that I can actually lift the Suspension Wash Tub up several inches. I do this in hopes of shaking or breaking the Wash Plate loose.



But still it will not break free.

Any suggestions please on how to release this Plastic Wash Plate?

Thanks

Replaced a few parts and GE Profile fridge still won't stay at set temp. What could be wrong?

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First time posting and hope that I can get some help. I have a GE Profile Series Side-by-Side refrigerator (model PZS25KSECFSS) that I have set at 0/37 (sometimes lower than that, too) and the freezer and refrigerator portion does not stay at the set temp. It doesn't creep up too high, but right now it is at 4 (freezer) and 40 (refrigerator) on the actual temp and it is set to be at -2/34. I have cleaned/vacuumed in the back around the coils, replaced the defrost heater, replaced the refrigerator defrost thermostat (connected to the freezer coils) and replaced the refrigerator temperature sensor (connected to the freezer coils in the freezer section as well). I hear the fan going (and shutting off) when I open the refrigerator door and there is no major build up of frost on the freezer coils. The door gaskets on both door looks just fine. Is there something I am completely missing? I am hoping to get this fixed on my own if possible just to save some money right now but I'm in 90 bucks and haven't seem to fix it correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated!

GE Dishwasher fills with water but won't spray or move arms

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Hello,

I'm having a problem with my dishwasher I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.

Currently, it will fill with water and then just sit there, it seems to heat up, the soap door opens and it leaks down the door. then it drains and does it's heat dry stage. but the arms never spray any water or anything.

so far i've checked and cleaned the float switch, the arms, all the filters. I replaced a faulty water inlet valve, and removed the motor and cleaned some hair out of the impeller blade thing. i checked the amps on it and it seemed fine. i think it was about 1250. (sorry, i'm not great at this mechanical stuff).
occasionally, after i turn off the power, take things apart and reassemble them, the dishwasher will sometimes work fine for one to two cycles. then the arms just stop working again.

I feel like i've tried everything recommended online for this model so far, but i might have missed something.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or other steps i could maybe take.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much!

Jeff

Will this be dangerous?

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This is a problem with a door latch and not anything in the electronic stuff. First thing to admit is that I do not know the theory of microwave ovens very well. However, with mine, the problem is only with the holder that holds the spring that controls the latch. It was made of plastic, and the plastic broke. The plastic spring holder was formed as part of the whole piece that goes around the door.

Rather than ordering a new door or other expensive piece, I fashioned a metal piece from junk aluminum to secure the spring, and then used CA glue and accelerator to glue it in place. It is secure. Question is this: will that metal piece cause any problems with the microwaves "leaking out"? I don't think it will, but I noticed there is no other metal piece outside the large metal piece that I assume is part the shield for the RF. ????

Look at the pictures attached.

Probably freaking out over nothing, but want to make sure I won't fry my kids' eyeballs. ;)

Thanks much!
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110.60912990 Dryer quit.

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Earlier today, when I pushed start button, it would just buzz...no movement. Then I had to manually spin the drum then I could shut the door and it would run. Now it will not turn on, nor any sound. ? This is a Kenmore 90 Series.

WT5101HV Wash Plate Not Releasing from Drive Shaft Spindle

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I have an LG WT5101HV Wave Force Top Loading Washer.

I need to replace the Washer Drive Shaft and Shifter Assembly. To do this I need to remove the Wash Plate and Wash Tub.

I have been following a Repair Clinic Video. The specific spot on the video appears at approximately 1:29 minutes of the 9:13 minute video.



It's a great video and very clear except they are demonstrating on a new washer where every part is easy to remove.

I have removed the Wash Cap and the 10mm bolt / screw securing the Wash Plate. But no matter how I try I can't get the WASH PLATE to release off of the Drive Shaft Spindle.

  • I have tried wiggling it from side to side.
  • I have placed coat hanger hooks into the 3 alignment holes for the Wash Cap and tried pulling it off.
  • I have place a polypropylene rope under and across the bottom of the Wash Plate so as to pull it loose.
  • I am pulling in both instances with such force that I can actually lift the Suspension Wash Tub up several inches. I do this in hopes of shaking or breaking the Wash Plate loose.



But still it will not break free.

Any suggestions please on how to release this Plastic Wash Plate?

Thanks

JVM7195EF1ES Door latch problem, Will this be dangerous?

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0
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This is a problem with a door latch and not anything in the electronic stuff. First thing to admit is that I do not know the theory of microwave ovens very well. However, with mine, the problem is only with the holder that holds the spring that controls the latch. It was made of plastic, and the plastic broke. The plastic spring holder was formed as part of the whole piece that goes around the door.

Rather than ordering a new door or other expensive piece, I fashioned a metal piece from junk aluminum to secure the spring, and then used CA glue and accelerator to glue it in place. It is secure. Question is this: will that metal piece cause any problems with the microwaves "leaking out"? I don't think it will, but I noticed there is no other metal piece outside the large metal piece that I assume is part the shield for the RF. ????

Look at the pictures attached.

Probably freaking out over nothing, but want to make sure I won't fry my kids' eyeballs. ;)

Thanks much!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version. 

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Both REF and FRZ are cold near the bottom and warm near the top.

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LG Model GC-B207FTCE (SXS series, side-by-side, Latin America (Ecuador))

Freezer/fridge settings LEDs showing a code of 5+2 LED on the FRZ TEMP setting and NO LEDs for the REF TEMP setting.

Click image for larger version. 

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Freezer is cold in the bottom shelves and warm at the top shelves
Fridges is the same, VERY cold (freezing) in the bottom shelf and warm at the top shelves.
Occasionally the settings LEDs will show the actual setting (I usually set both FRZ and REF at 3) but after a while will revert back to the 5+2 error code.

Thanks in advance for any information.
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PZS25KSECFSS GE Profile fridge still won't stay at set temp. What could be wrong?

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Replaced a few parts and GE Profile fridge still won't stay at set temp. What could be wrong?

First time posting and hope that I can get some help. I have a GE Profile Series Side-by-Side refrigerator (model PZS25KSECFSS) that I have set at 0/37 (sometimes lower than that, too) and the freezer and refrigerator portion does not stay at the set temp. It doesn't creep up too high, but right now it is at 4 (freezer) and 40 (refrigerator) on the actual temp and it is set to be at -2/34. I have cleaned/vacuumed in the back around the coils, replaced the defrost heater, replaced the refrigerator defrost thermostat (connected to the freezer coils) and replaced the refrigerator temperature sensor (connected to the freezer coils in the freezer section as well). I hear the fan going (and shutting off) when I open the refrigerator door and there is no major build up of frost on the freezer coils. The door gaskets on both door looks just fine. Is there something I am completely missing? I am hoping to get this fixed on my own if possible just to save some money right now but I'm in 90 bucks and haven't seem to fix it correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Plastic hinge broken

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The upper plastic hinge on the mullion door glide WR17X20619 has broken. Is it possible to just replace the plastic hinge without purchasing a complete mullion door glide?

Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher start button not working - reset sequence?

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Had this dishwasher for a couple years with no problems.

Recently the start button wasn't consistent...had to hold it down for 3-4 seconds before it started.
Then the Control Lock light would repeatedly stay on, which I could turn off by holding down the Sani Rinse button.
I unplugged the unit for 30 minutes, which didn't resolve the issue.

Now the start button doesn't work at all.
I can feel the button depress, but no-go.
I tried time delay wash, but the washer didn't start after timer.

I have seen reset videos for a couple Kenmore dishwashers, but the buttons layout is different, so not applicable.

Question: what is the reset sequence for this Kenmore model #?
Is there anything different that I can try before ordering a replacement touch pad electronics?
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