Freezer light out but refrigerator lights dim. I cleaned led lights with electrical cleaner and lights came back to bright. After and hour same problem returned. Need Help. butchmd11
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Lights
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Problem after snubber ring replacement Maytag
Hello, I replaced the snubber ring on my Maytag mav208daww everything went fine. After I put it back together the washer will not agitate . It will spin drain but when it trys to wash/agitate. When it trys the motor turns on and I can smell the belt slipping and it overloads the motor.
Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for the help!!
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GDF520PSF4SS GE Dishwasher fills with water but won't spray or move arms
Hello,
I'm having a problem with my dishwasher I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.
Currently, it will fill with water and then just sit there, it seems to heat up, the soap door opens and it leaks down the door. then it drains and does it's heat dry stage. but the arms never spray any water or anything.
so far i've checked and cleaned the float switch, the arms, all the filters. I replaced a faulty water inlet valve, and removed the motor and cleaned some hair out of the impeller blade thing. i checked the amps on it and it seemed fine. i think it was about 1250. (sorry, i'm not great at this mechanical stuff).
occasionally, after i turn off the power, take things apart and reassemble them, the dishwasher will sometimes work fine for one to two cycles. then the arms just stop working again.
I feel like i've tried everything recommended online for this model so far, but i might have missed something.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or other steps i could maybe take.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much!
Jeff
I'm having a problem with my dishwasher I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.
Currently, it will fill with water and then just sit there, it seems to heat up, the soap door opens and it leaks down the door. then it drains and does it's heat dry stage. but the arms never spray any water or anything.
so far i've checked and cleaned the float switch, the arms, all the filters. I replaced a faulty water inlet valve, and removed the motor and cleaned some hair out of the impeller blade thing. i checked the amps on it and it seemed fine. i think it was about 1250. (sorry, i'm not great at this mechanical stuff).
occasionally, after i turn off the power, take things apart and reassemble them, the dishwasher will sometimes work fine for one to two cycles. then the arms just stop working again.
I feel like i've tried everything recommended online for this model so far, but i might have missed something.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or other steps i could maybe take.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much!
Jeff
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GNE22GMEBFES Plastic hinge broken
The upper plastic hinge on the mullion door glide WR17X20619 has broken. Is it possible to just replace the plastic hinge without purchasing a complete mullion door glide?
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New LFXS28968S water tastes bad
Replaced a 12 year old GE where the water coming from dispenser tasted good. After installing the new LG fridge and new filter? Horrible tasting water. Changed metal supply hose to pvc - still bad. Water coming out of supply valve? It tastes like it's coming out of garden hose and that's what it tastes like coming through fridge. Pretty much like brand new filter is doing nothing or it's bypassed. When I pull it out no water dribbles out and it's dry at filter connector.
I've ordered new filters but what am I missing? :wall:
Replace valve? Filter problem?
I've ordered new filters but what am I missing? :wall:
Replace valve? Filter problem?
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Won't spin out
Forgive me in advance if i missed a post with my same issue. Background: Clothes not being spun enough. Clothes are still wet. That being said, I have looked seemingly everywhere and chased several avenues. What I have done: Replaced belt. Totally disassembled washer with exception of removing the motor/transmission (trying to see if clogged drain tube and realized how nasty washer was). In process of disassembly/reassembly I inspected the ?? clutch thing on bottom behind pulley. It seemed fine. After removing wash plate i looked at the piece under it that connects to the drive shaft. It appeared to be fine. I have ran auto diagnostics (i am struggling with those and finding error codes) and also recalibrated after reinstalling drum and everything. What its doing: Washer seems to agitate. Upon spin cycle, the tub starts moving slowly at first and as speed tries to pick up, the wash plate suddenly spins like at 1,000,000 rpm and the tub just barely turns. Again, I apologize for anything i have missed and any poor descriptions.
Please advise.... clothes are mounting, wife is really mad and I am totally frustrated. I really don't want to buy a new machine and I really don't want to "parts swap". Thank you for the tech sheet i found useful to a point. I have suffered a TBI injury and sometimes struggle.
Much thanks in advance.
Please advise.... clothes are mounting, wife is really mad and I am totally frustrated. I really don't want to buy a new machine and I really don't want to "parts swap". Thank you for the tech sheet i found useful to a point. I have suffered a TBI injury and sometimes struggle.
Much thanks in advance.
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665.13222N412 Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher start button not working - reset sequence?
Had this dishwasher for a couple years with no problems.
Recently the start button wasn't consistent...had to hold it down for 3-4 seconds before it started.
Then the Control Lock light would repeatedly stay on, which I could turn off by holding down the Sani Rinse button.
I unplugged the unit for 30 minutes, which didn't resolve the issue.
Now the start button doesn't work at all.
I can feel the button depress, but no-go.
I tried time delay wash, but the washer didn't start after timer.
I have seen reset videos for a couple Kenmore dishwashers, but the buttons layout is different, so not applicable.
Question: what is the reset sequence for this Kenmore model #?
Is there anything different that I can try before ordering a replacement touch pad electronics?
Recently the start button wasn't consistent...had to hold it down for 3-4 seconds before it started.
Then the Control Lock light would repeatedly stay on, which I could turn off by holding down the Sani Rinse button.
I unplugged the unit for 30 minutes, which didn't resolve the issue.
Now the start button doesn't work at all.
I can feel the button depress, but no-go.
I tried time delay wash, but the washer didn't start after timer.
I have seen reset videos for a couple Kenmore dishwashers, but the buttons layout is different, so not applicable.
Question: what is the reset sequence for this Kenmore model #?
Is there anything different that I can try before ordering a replacement touch pad electronics?
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WRS325FDAM04 Lights
Freezer light out but refrigerator lights dim. I cleaned led lights with electrical cleaner and lights came back to bright. After and hour same problem returned. Need Help. butchmd11
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Dryer only producing low heat
Hello. I've attempted all troubleshooting techniques that I am capable. Please make any suggestions you may have. No other forums have provided any viable suggestions...
Dryer: Maytag MDE2400AYW
Problem: Dryer producing very little heat.
Assumptions: Problem with Resetable Thermal fuse (sensor), High Limit Thermostat (sensor), Thermistor (sensor), or Heating element.
Troubleshooting steps:
Took top off unit so I could see the element condition while running. Turned unit on and I could feel low heat, but the element was not glowing red. I then removed the element from the unit and placed on the floor and connected back to harness. Turned on unit and element glowed full red. I then checked for continuity, resistance, and ground short (element housing continuity with element). All looked ok. So then moved on to other items.
Placed element back in unit. I then removed both the Resetable Thermal fuse and High Limit Thermostat from the back of the element housing cover (but kept the wires connected) and placed off to the side. Turned unit on, same low heat issue. Then I pulled the wires from both of these 'sensors' and hard wired the harnesses together to completely remove them from the schematic (totally closed circuit). Turned unit on, same issue. Checked both sensors for continuity, both ok.
Ok, got to be the Thermistor. I then removed the Thermistor from the fan duct. Kept the wires connected, pulled Thermistor outside unit, placed inside towel to isolate from any temperature changes. Turned unit on, SAME ISSUE. So not a sensor problem. I checked the Thermistor resistance at 68 degrees and matched exactly the service manual (60K Ohm) and then changed ambient temperature while testing resistance and thermistor reacted accordingly.
Ok here's the kicker...
Now, the element is installed, the two thermostats (sensors) are disconnected and their harnesses hard-wired together, and the thermistor is connected but outside the unit inside a towel. I then remove the lint filter, check for any obstructions in the blower and tape the door switch closed. I open the door to 90 degrees. I turn the unit on... and WHOA, full red glow form the element. I then start closing the door and when it gets to about 1" from shutting, the element starts to decrease in glow. At door fully closed, the element goes back to no red glow, but producing low heat. I have removed all the sensors from the electrical equation and element is still reacting to something.
Now, time to take out the service manual and check for codes and resistances through the board. No codes show up, and all the diagnostic steps and resistance tests through the board show anything wrong. I even tested the voltage across the element while the door was moving to turn the element from red to low heat and the voltage remained at 240V.
Is it possible that air blowing past a "weak" element is causing it to cool off? Or is there some other sensor that I am missing and is not on the schematic that is reacting when outside air starts to be pulled through the element and then warm air from the glowing element through the unit blower. The blower seems to be working perfect and the drum is turning as always.
I have attached the last page of the service manual for the Schematic.
Please any suggestions are worth trying at this point. The dryer is pretty old and the element is one of those self contained pricey units (over $100) so not worth replacing to troubleshoot (and by itself, it seems to be able to produce full heat)
Thanks in advance
Dryer: Maytag MDE2400AYW
Problem: Dryer producing very little heat.
Assumptions: Problem with Resetable Thermal fuse (sensor), High Limit Thermostat (sensor), Thermistor (sensor), or Heating element.
Troubleshooting steps:
Took top off unit so I could see the element condition while running. Turned unit on and I could feel low heat, but the element was not glowing red. I then removed the element from the unit and placed on the floor and connected back to harness. Turned on unit and element glowed full red. I then checked for continuity, resistance, and ground short (element housing continuity with element). All looked ok. So then moved on to other items.
Placed element back in unit. I then removed both the Resetable Thermal fuse and High Limit Thermostat from the back of the element housing cover (but kept the wires connected) and placed off to the side. Turned unit on, same low heat issue. Then I pulled the wires from both of these 'sensors' and hard wired the harnesses together to completely remove them from the schematic (totally closed circuit). Turned unit on, same issue. Checked both sensors for continuity, both ok.
Ok, got to be the Thermistor. I then removed the Thermistor from the fan duct. Kept the wires connected, pulled Thermistor outside unit, placed inside towel to isolate from any temperature changes. Turned unit on, SAME ISSUE. So not a sensor problem. I checked the Thermistor resistance at 68 degrees and matched exactly the service manual (60K Ohm) and then changed ambient temperature while testing resistance and thermistor reacted accordingly.
Ok here's the kicker...
Now, the element is installed, the two thermostats (sensors) are disconnected and their harnesses hard-wired together, and the thermistor is connected but outside the unit inside a towel. I then remove the lint filter, check for any obstructions in the blower and tape the door switch closed. I open the door to 90 degrees. I turn the unit on... and WHOA, full red glow form the element. I then start closing the door and when it gets to about 1" from shutting, the element starts to decrease in glow. At door fully closed, the element goes back to no red glow, but producing low heat. I have removed all the sensors from the electrical equation and element is still reacting to something.
Now, time to take out the service manual and check for codes and resistances through the board. No codes show up, and all the diagnostic steps and resistance tests through the board show anything wrong. I even tested the voltage across the element while the door was moving to turn the element from red to low heat and the voltage remained at 240V.
Is it possible that air blowing past a "weak" element is causing it to cool off? Or is there some other sensor that I am missing and is not on the schematic that is reacting when outside air starts to be pulled through the element and then warm air from the glowing element through the unit blower. The blower seems to be working perfect and the drum is turning as always.
I have attached the last page of the service manual for the Schematic.
Please any suggestions are worth trying at this point. The dryer is pretty old and the element is one of those self contained pricey units (over $100) so not worth replacing to troubleshoot (and by itself, it seems to be able to produce full heat)
Thanks in advance
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Whirlpool washer making dark stains on clothes
The whirlpool washer is making dark spots on the clothes, have did vinegar rinses in it but still the dark spots appear on clothing,
just wondering what could be wrong?
just wondering what could be wrong?
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MAV208DAWW Problem after snubber ring replacement Maytag
Hello, I replaced the snubber ring on my Maytag MAV208DAWW everything went fine. After I put it back together the washer will not agitate . It will spin drain but when it try’s to wash/agitate. When it try’s the motor turns on and I can smell the belt slipping and it overloads the motor.
Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for the help!!
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Electrolux EIED2CAQSW00 noise
Hi,
I need to repair a dryer in one day so i'll need to have the piece in hand before opening it. It looks to me like the sound is coming from the right, so it might be a wheel or it could just be a glider/bearing?Here is the link :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14o...jUT4K7x5Es0oRP
Does it sound something familiar to you?
Thanks for your help,
I need to repair a dryer in one day so i'll need to have the piece in hand before opening it. It looks to me like the sound is coming from the right, so it might be a wheel or it could just be a glider/bearing?Here is the link :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14o...jUT4K7x5Es0oRP
Does it sound something familiar to you?
Thanks for your help,
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Water Remains Cold
Making progress, maybe 85% finished. Water hookup a few days ago, (I was quite tired of washing dishes with the garden hose). Turned on the dishwasher for the first time in about 3 weeks and the wash cycle never got hot. It's 9 years old.
So, what went wrong? Did the fired knucklehead somehow screw up the dishwasher installation? Is that even possible? From what I see, (check photo), the hot water valve on the lower left is connected to the dishwasher. And for what it's worth, we have hot water from the sink. Am I looking at another expense in my kitchen remodel hell?
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Kenmore gas dryer 417.91122310 - Randomly quits running / pauses
Hello,
I have a Kenmore gas dryer that is about 4 years old. Paid decent money for the dryer.
Started having issues about 2 years ago where the dryer would not heat.
After quick inspection, found that the dryer safety thermostat was blown (#137539200).
Replaced that and dryer worked for another year. No big deal.
Then dryer wouldn't heat again. Found safety thermostat was blown yet again!
Decided that perhaps operating thermostat (#137116700) or dryer thermistor (#134587700) was bad/out of range so I replace these 2 parts along with the safety thermostat. While I had the dryer tore apart again, decided to replace igniter (#137524000) and radiant sensor (#5303281135).
5 new parts. Done. A little ticked, but ok.
Dryer worked for about a few months, then started doing this thing where is runs for a while, then randomly loses power, flickers off (all LEDs off, no heat, no spin), then back on, and into "PAUSE". This all happens in about 1-2 seconds.
When I say loses power, the symptoms match a complete lose of power. I can replicate the issue by briefly unplugging the power cord while the dryer is running, then plug it back in. So it was like the system completely loses power, not like a safety fuse is going/gone. In those cases, the board is still powered and the dryer continues to run for a while without heat. Even a faulty door switch just causes the dryer to stop spinning, but it doesn't cause the entire board to go out.
So I decided that the board must be bad. New board installed (#137070890). Not very happy at this point. Board expensive.
Didn't solve the issue. Still does the same bloody thing.
Downloaded wiring diagram and realize there is another safety on the exhaust, that if faulty, could cause a complete power interruption to the main board. It's called the exhaust thermal fuse. If this fuse has an intermittent connection, it could explain my issues. New fuse installed (#134711401). While I was at it, I also installed a new humidity sensor (#134786110) thinking that I had FINALLY solved the issue.
Test ran the dryer and still have the same intermittent power loss, into PAUSE.
I am at a complete loss. So much so that I bought a new pistol (was looking for an excuse) and I plan to go outside tomorrow and shoot this God forsaken dryer full of holes....then I realized that I just installed a few hundred dollars worth of parts in this horrible dryer, so I won't do that yet. But I still have a new pistol.
Tried powering dryer on different outlet - no fix.
Tried punching this awful dryer - no fix.
Tried standing on dryer and jumped up and down - no fix.
This thing is an absolute terd.
Any ideas what else I could replace to solve the issue?
Thanks.
I have a Kenmore gas dryer that is about 4 years old. Paid decent money for the dryer.
Started having issues about 2 years ago where the dryer would not heat.
After quick inspection, found that the dryer safety thermostat was blown (#137539200).
Replaced that and dryer worked for another year. No big deal.
Then dryer wouldn't heat again. Found safety thermostat was blown yet again!
Decided that perhaps operating thermostat (#137116700) or dryer thermistor (#134587700) was bad/out of range so I replace these 2 parts along with the safety thermostat. While I had the dryer tore apart again, decided to replace igniter (#137524000) and radiant sensor (#5303281135).
5 new parts. Done. A little ticked, but ok.
Dryer worked for about a few months, then started doing this thing where is runs for a while, then randomly loses power, flickers off (all LEDs off, no heat, no spin), then back on, and into "PAUSE". This all happens in about 1-2 seconds.
When I say loses power, the symptoms match a complete lose of power. I can replicate the issue by briefly unplugging the power cord while the dryer is running, then plug it back in. So it was like the system completely loses power, not like a safety fuse is going/gone. In those cases, the board is still powered and the dryer continues to run for a while without heat. Even a faulty door switch just causes the dryer to stop spinning, but it doesn't cause the entire board to go out.
So I decided that the board must be bad. New board installed (#137070890). Not very happy at this point. Board expensive.
Didn't solve the issue. Still does the same bloody thing.
Downloaded wiring diagram and realize there is another safety on the exhaust, that if faulty, could cause a complete power interruption to the main board. It's called the exhaust thermal fuse. If this fuse has an intermittent connection, it could explain my issues. New fuse installed (#134711401). While I was at it, I also installed a new humidity sensor (#134786110) thinking that I had FINALLY solved the issue.
Test ran the dryer and still have the same intermittent power loss, into PAUSE.
I am at a complete loss. So much so that I bought a new pistol (was looking for an excuse) and I plan to go outside tomorrow and shoot this God forsaken dryer full of holes....then I realized that I just installed a few hundred dollars worth of parts in this horrible dryer, so I won't do that yet. But I still have a new pistol.
Tried powering dryer on different outlet - no fix.
Tried punching this awful dryer - no fix.
Tried standing on dryer and jumped up and down - no fix.
This thing is an absolute terd.
Any ideas what else I could replace to solve the issue?
Thanks.
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Replaced shift actuator, still wont spin
Ran diagnostic and got F7 E1 code. Replaced shifter/actuator. Still won't spin. Starts and stops. Ran manual diagnostic and got to spin/agitator tests and lid lock won't come on to complete the tests. Lid lock test worked fine. Problem with lid lock or control panel?
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FIXED MVWX655DW0 Won't spin out
Forgive me in advance if i missed a post with my same issue.
Background: Clothes not being spun enough. Clothes are still wet. That being said, I have looked seemingly everywhere and chased several avenues. What I have done: Replaced belt. Totally disassembled washer with exception of removing the motor/transmission (trying to see if clogged drain tube and realized how nasty washer was).
In process of disassembly/reassembly I inspected the ?? clutch thing on bottom behind pulley. It seemed fine. After removing wash plate i looked at the piece under it that connects to the drive shaft. It appeared to be fine. I have ran auto diagnostics (i am struggling with those and finding error codes) and also recalibrated after reinstalling drum and everything.
What its doing: Washer seems to agitate. Upon spin cycle, the tub starts moving slowly at first and as speed tries to pick up, the wash plate suddenly spins like at 1,000,000 rpm and the tub just barely turns. Again, I apologize for anything i have missed and any poor descriptions.
Please advise.... clothes are mounting, wife is really mad and I am totally frustrated. I really don't want to buy a new machine and I really don't want to "parts swap". Thank you for the tech sheet i found useful to a point. I have suffered a TBI injury and sometimes struggle.
Much thanks in advance.
Background: Clothes not being spun enough. Clothes are still wet. That being said, I have looked seemingly everywhere and chased several avenues. What I have done: Replaced belt. Totally disassembled washer with exception of removing the motor/transmission (trying to see if clogged drain tube and realized how nasty washer was).
In process of disassembly/reassembly I inspected the ?? clutch thing on bottom behind pulley. It seemed fine. After removing wash plate i looked at the piece under it that connects to the drive shaft. It appeared to be fine. I have ran auto diagnostics (i am struggling with those and finding error codes) and also recalibrated after reinstalling drum and everything.
What its doing: Washer seems to agitate. Upon spin cycle, the tub starts moving slowly at first and as speed tries to pick up, the wash plate suddenly spins like at 1,000,000 rpm and the tub just barely turns. Again, I apologize for anything i have missed and any poor descriptions.
Please advise.... clothes are mounting, wife is really mad and I am totally frustrated. I really don't want to buy a new machine and I really don't want to "parts swap". Thank you for the tech sheet i found useful to a point. I have suffered a TBI injury and sometimes struggle.
Much thanks in advance.
↧
MDE2400AYW Dryer only producing low heat
Hello. I've attempted all troubleshooting techniques that I am capable. Please make any suggestions you may have. No other forums have provided any viable suggestions...
Dryer: Maytag MDE2400AYW
Problem: Dryer producing very little heat.
Assumptions: Problem with Resetable Thermal fuse (sensor), High Limit Thermostat (sensor), Thermistor (sensor), or Heating element.
Troubleshooting steps:
Took top off unit so I could see the element condition while running. Turned unit on and I could feel low heat, but the element was not glowing red. I then removed the element from the unit and placed on the floor and connected back to harness. Turned on unit and element glowed full red. I then checked for continuity, resistance, and ground short (element housing continuity with element). All looked ok. So then moved on to other items.
Placed element back in unit. I then removed both the Resetable Thermal fuse and High Limit Thermostat from the back of the element housing cover (but kept the wires connected) and placed off to the side. Turned unit on, same low heat issue. Then I pulled the wires from both of these 'sensors' and hard wired the harnesses together to completely remove them from the schematic (totally closed circuit). Turned unit on, same issue. Checked both sensors for continuity, both ok.
Ok, got to be the Thermistor. I then removed the Thermistor from the fan duct. Kept the wires connected, pulled Thermistor outside unit, placed inside towel to isolate from any temperature changes. Turned unit on, SAME ISSUE. So not a sensor problem. I checked the Thermistor resistance at 68 degrees and matched exactly the service manual (60K Ohm) and then changed ambient temperature while testing resistance and thermistor reacted accordingly.
Ok here's the kicker...
Now, the element is installed, the two thermostats (sensors) are disconnected and their harnesses hard-wired together, and the thermistor is connected but outside the unit inside a towel. I then remove the lint filter, check for any obstructions in the blower and tape the door switch closed. I open the door to 90 degrees. I turn the unit on... and WHOA, full red glow form the element. I then start closing the door and when it gets to about 1" from shutting, the element starts to decrease in glow. At door fully closed, the element goes back to no red glow, but producing low heat. I have removed all the sensors from the electrical equation and element is still reacting to something.
Now, time to take out the service manual and check for codes and resistances through the board. No codes show up, and all the diagnostic steps and resistance tests through the board show anything wrong. I even tested the voltage across the element while the door was moving to turn the element from red to low heat and the voltage remained at 240V.
Is it possible that air blowing past a "weak" element is causing it to cool off? Or is there some other sensor that I am missing and is not on the schematic that is reacting when outside air starts to be pulled through the element and then warm air from the glowing element through the unit blower. The blower seems to be working perfect and the drum is turning as always.
I have attached the last page of the service manual for the Schematic.
Please any suggestions are worth trying at this point. The dryer is pretty old and the element is one of those self contained pricey units (over $100) so not worth replacing to troubleshoot (and by itself, it seems to be able to produce full heat)
Thanks in advance
Dryer: Maytag MDE2400AYW
Problem: Dryer producing very little heat.
Assumptions: Problem with Resetable Thermal fuse (sensor), High Limit Thermostat (sensor), Thermistor (sensor), or Heating element.
Troubleshooting steps:
Took top off unit so I could see the element condition while running. Turned unit on and I could feel low heat, but the element was not glowing red. I then removed the element from the unit and placed on the floor and connected back to harness. Turned on unit and element glowed full red. I then checked for continuity, resistance, and ground short (element housing continuity with element). All looked ok. So then moved on to other items.
Placed element back in unit. I then removed both the Resetable Thermal fuse and High Limit Thermostat from the back of the element housing cover (but kept the wires connected) and placed off to the side. Turned unit on, same low heat issue. Then I pulled the wires from both of these 'sensors' and hard wired the harnesses together to completely remove them from the schematic (totally closed circuit). Turned unit on, same issue. Checked both sensors for continuity, both ok.
Ok, got to be the Thermistor. I then removed the Thermistor from the fan duct. Kept the wires connected, pulled Thermistor outside unit, placed inside towel to isolate from any temperature changes. Turned unit on, SAME ISSUE. So not a sensor problem. I checked the Thermistor resistance at 68 degrees and matched exactly the service manual (60K Ohm) and then changed ambient temperature while testing resistance and thermistor reacted accordingly.
Ok here's the kicker...
Now, the element is installed, the two thermostats (sensors) are disconnected and their harnesses hard-wired together, and the thermistor is connected but outside the unit inside a towel. I then remove the lint filter, check for any obstructions in the blower and tape the door switch closed. I open the door to 90 degrees. I turn the unit on... and WHOA, full red glow form the element. I then start closing the door and when it gets to about 1" from shutting, the element starts to decrease in glow. At door fully closed, the element goes back to no red glow, but producing low heat. I have removed all the sensors from the electrical equation and element is still reacting to something.
Now, time to take out the service manual and check for codes and resistances through the board. No codes show up, and all the diagnostic steps and resistance tests through the board show anything wrong. I even tested the voltage across the element while the door was moving to turn the element from red to low heat and the voltage remained at 240V.
Is it possible that air blowing past a "weak" element is causing it to cool off? Or is there some other sensor that I am missing and is not on the schematic that is reacting when outside air starts to be pulled through the element and then warm air from the glowing element through the unit blower. The blower seems to be working perfect and the drum is turning as always.
I have attached the last page of the service manual for the Schematic.
Please any suggestions are worth trying at this point. The dryer is pretty old and the element is one of those self contained pricey units (over $100) so not worth replacing to troubleshoot (and by itself, it seems to be able to produce full heat)
Thanks in advance
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LSQ9030PQ5 Whirlpool washer making dark stains on clothes
The whirlpool washer is making dark spots on the clothes, have did vinegar rinses in it but still the dark spots appear on clothing,
just wondering what could be wrong?
just wondering what could be wrong?
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Side by side not getting cold
Fridge isn't getting cold. Both fans are running and the Compressor checks out for continuity rc+sc=rs and no found shorts. I replaced the run/start relay with a Supco 3in1. Do I need to install the capacitor with that. The cap. has no continuity between terminals and is bad. I thought the 3in1 eliminated the need for it ? :wall: :stupid:
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Kenmore 665.13409N412 - Runs but no water
I've tried running a few different cycles. Hot water is in the pipe attached to the dishwasher but when it runs, no water appears to be used. On the cycle I normally use, the soap is properly dispensed but just is laying in the dishwashernot dissolved because there's no water. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
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